Start on the same holds as Reach Around, but go straight up the face without using any holds on the arete.  The crux involves rocking over your foot on a good foothold at the base of the head wall and balancing to stand up.  There is alot of growth on the face, but all the necessary holds are clean and not lost within the greenery.

Turtle Spider

Tinkering Toward Utopia

Essential Business

Main Street Blues

Mushroom Slab

Oscar the Grouch

Mushmom

Swamp Ass Season

Boneyard

Shotgun Love Songs

Jamie's Traverse

Turtle head traverse

Reach Around

Pale King

Snapping Turtle Traverse

Trashcan Boulder

The twist and shout

Starting with both hands on the pocket rail underneath. Work out right and then up the rail on top of the boulder's face.

Sit start on the low right side of the rail and work left toward center top out.

Start all the way to the left underside the boulder. Traverse right on the rail using heel and toe hooks until there are no more good holds. The main crux is a long reach into a small crimp with the right hand - using a bad bicycle, cross underneath and match with the left hand. Then reach around the lip with the right to link up with Reach Around and finish.

Awkward low sit start with both hands in the blast hole. Move straight up. Can fire directly for the lip of the boulder or use small intermediate crimps in between blast hole and lip.

Start the problem on the jug rail under the slab and throw for the lip. Then follow the ladder of holds up the left to the top.

Start on an left undercling and a right sidepull. Pull through using bad holds and solid feet. The crux is going around the corner. Finish on Trashcan.

Crux is the first move.  Sit start on the shallow pinch block, getting as much opposition as possible off the good foot hold.  Power up to the shelf, keeping core tension to avoid dabbing the other boulder.  There are several ways to to the slab.  I make a somewhat big move up to the good sloper in the middle of the lip, but there are various smaller crimps near the base of the slab or immediately below the lip to use as well.  Maintain tension to cross over your right hand to the good jug crimps above the sloper, match, then bump right hand up to another good jug crimp, and come into another good incut jug crimp to the left of your right hand.  Do what you need to to rock up on a foot and lean forward onto the slab, then walk up.  This route is technically an eliminate, since you cannot use the good jug shelves to the right or left of the slab on this line, however, it still works well because the slab is so large.  More like avoiding temptation to use them than actually avoid them.  The stand start begins on the jug shelf and goes at V5 or so.

Great roof problem with potential for extending a hard sit start and other variations. Work the obvious line out to the right.

Hard starting holds making this problem tough right from the start. Start at bottom left of the boulder and work your way right to the right side top. Top out is a little tricky also. A good lowball with a few power moves

Low sit start work left up a series of crimps.

This is just to the LEFT of the Mushroom Slab, it's a traverse, not super hard but has a couple less then great crimps.

Great feet throughout. Start on the far left with two good handholds move to the right to a big jug match then over to a decent crimp  match crimp (the Crux) then a couple good hand holds to the top!

Sit start matching on crimp just left of the blast hole, work slightly right on crimps to center lip top out of the boulder.

Start underneath the boulder on marked holds & traverse left using toe and heel hooks. Throw blind around the lip and finish on Turtle Head traverse. 

fun compression start into a one move dyno to the lip of the boulder. The feet make this boulder the challenging part. Brownie points if you lap this right after you send the mushroom slab.

A little unnecessary but hey it's fun to spin around!

Middle section of the cliff band with some smaller sized free-standing boulders.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in B: Broken Bridge Area