This route is located on the east face of the East Peak of Bridge Mountain and can be seen from the 13-mile loop road between Icebox and Juniper Canyons. The first six pitches climb the wide crack system visible on the left side of the steepest part of the multi-colored wall. Park in a small pullout on the right, less than a mile before the Pine Creek parking area and directly below the face.  

  The easiest approach ascends the middle of three broad gullies beneath this side of Bridge Mt. (the middle gully meets the face just right of the prominent buttress marking the right side of the wall). Hike up this gully until close to the wall then navigate a short but dense section of scrub oak until beneath the route. Two bolted anchors were found in the first three pitches, and a bail anchor about 12 meters up the fourth pitch.  

  P1: Begin in a bushy, right-leaning crack below a tree about 15 meters up (alternatively, traverse a sandy face from the left [5.8] to avoid the initial vegetation). Climb up past a chimney and more bushes to a two-bolt anchor. 5.6, 35m 

  P2: Climb a varnished flare to a bushy ledge 15m above the belay (can combine P1 and 2) then bushwhack 10 meters left to belay beneath a crack splitting the face. *Do not continue straight up the attractive hand crack in a left-facing corner above the ledge. 5.8, 25m 

  P3: Head up the crack and face to a beautiful flare that ends at a two-bolt anchor. 5.9, 20m 

  P4: Quest up the gaping chimney, which narrows to a squeeze then a tricky bulge and finally a varnished finger and hand crack. Belay beneath a wide crack in a roof (wide cams at belay). 5.10c, 25m 

  P5: Navigate the roof with helpful face holds then squirm upward. When the chimney peters out step right over a pillar of white rock to a small stance at a varnished hand crack. The first ascensionists belayed here (35m) but its better to continue another 15m (easy) to a large flat area beneath another chimney. 5.9, 50m 

  P6: Battle the steep slot to reach easier crack climbing to the top of the buttress. 5.10a, 40m 

  P7: Walk and scramble up and right about 30 meters then downclimb a short corner to flat ground. 5.2, 35m 

  P8: Ascend the bushy weakness, trending left. Then squeeze up a varnished chimney to belay at a chockstone in a tight alcove beneath a roof. 5.9, 35m 

  P9: Climb delicately out the wide roof crack using fragile face holds and jams, then up a crack to a slab. Traverse right across the slab and into a cave to belay. 5.10d, 22m 

  P10: Squeeze up the smooth, splitter chimney on the left to a bushy ledge at its top. 5.10a, 25m 

  P11: Step left around a yucca to an easy crack and rounded arete. Climb past a final, short chimney on the left to the top of the ridge. 5.5, 50m

Bromancing The Stone

Out For Blood

Excellent route. Offers a variety of climbing techniques. Bullet stone! Pitch one and two have definetely been climbed before, but 3 and 4 looked like it was all on us. 

  P1: Climb white rock Starting on a boulder to your right. A short and easy runout above the boulder will gain a left treding crack into the corner. Build a belay above scrub oak. 100ft. 

  P2: Now on red bullet stone, Climb through a short but perfect,somewhat mossy lieback corner. I climbed the crack on right, you could take an offwidth 4ft left. Gain easy lowangle ground, stay left toward an akward squeeze chimney and pull through it. Build a belay on big ledge. 

  P3: The money pitch! Start chimney or face climb on the crack on the right. Sick moves around a scrub oak to an excellent crack. Build a belay near another scrub 100ft. The crack on the left has been climbed before, as we could see a bolt about 40 feet up in an offwidth chimney section. 

  P4:Finish up easier ground and top out!

Good looking wall. Seems like a pretty obscure area, most likely due to approach and lack of published routes. Has a nice isolated feel making for some wild climbing.  Several documented routes, several undocumented routes, a few new lines and a vast potential. Rock quality varies on different formations,generally solid.

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Routes in Eagles Nest