Decode the cryptic start, then fire into the slab, taking note of what little feet there are. This thing is balancey, technical, and quite crimpy, so bring your slab shoes, and warm up those fingers. Avoid using a cheater block at the start for full value!

Inappropriately Hard

The Middle Path

In the Shadow of the Summer

The Shaman

Little Bohemian

Nomad

Confessional

Goldmund

Arete Syndrome

Bulletproof Monk

Barking Dogmas

Idle Hands

Full Thickness

Mission Creep

Prajna

Monks Brew

Monk in the Middle

Narcissus

Whipping Boy

SNUG

Repent for Your Sends

The Suffering

TATS

Vidal-Bost Memorial Arête

The Heretic

Thelonius

Fatal Funnel

INDY Project

The Core

Lucifer's Unicycle

Lounge Lizard

Vagabond

Expiation

Adrenergic Half-Life

Pickled Pig's Feet

Twist your Hip and do the Dip

Sugar Pad

This amazing route has some of the best rock and coolest moves in all of Miller Fork. Start on good holds and head through a couple bolts of jugs before coming to the obvious blank section with a two-finger pocket in the middle. Previously everyone was using the two-finger pocket and the mono next to it to launch up to the jug above. Now there are a couple of right hand sidepulls that take some of the sting out of this move. If you're of average height, this move can be done relatively statically. You might still be jumping if you're short!

Rest up before the main crux which is a deadpoint to a crimp edge off of a left hand sidepull. Don't relax once you hit the crimp because you still need to get to the anchors which entails a couple more tough moves.

This route has fond memories for me, not only because I remember enjoying it as many of the other Red River Classics that I got on that year, but due to the FA party where NO ONE sent. There was a three fall limit imposed, and it thwarted many a, new and old, strong local. When the heat and mank are no more it may feel low in the grade, but I remember it being rather tough.

Sustained from bottom to top, this worthy addition to Miller will find you alone and wondering where the jugs went. When at last you find them in giant iron-oxide bands clipping the anchors (tread careful here). Otherwise, you may want to scrub some lichen off, the rock is rather bomber, and cleaned rather well.

There is a low bolt in the cave to protect a low class move up to a small ledge, once on the ledge go indirect to the bolt above you and clip up above the roof, lower back to the ledge and shoe up. Not easy to clip the bolt above the roof and would not be fun to blow. If you feel a pause in ethics about this, smile and remember you are sport climbing :)

Quotes from the FA party (more to come):

'All plans are canceled' -Xach

'Fuck dough' -Red Matt

(more photos to come as well, right now i only have the ones of me)

Awkward start trending right followed by overhanging steep wall

Start on the opening of Nomad for the first moves then more sustained climbing after that . The Direct start is estimated at 12d and known as Grand Bohemian.

Steep bouldery start. The angle lessens as you climb higher.

Ponder your transgressions as you make it to the last bolt crux, then reach for absolution at the anchors that are shared with the trad climb to the left.

Bolted route on the arete. Mellow start up to a ledge, followed by the crux on a bulging section a bit to the right. It eases up a bit on varied terrain from there to the top.

Another thin start but easier than Monk in the Middle. Find a rest in the middle to deal with the finishing crux.

Start a few feet right of The Shaman and climb to a no hands stance below a roof. Climb out the roof and take on sustained pocket climbing to a tough boulder going to the anchors.

This excellent line starts with a tough boulder problem off the ground to a big jug below the first bolt. Move up through big moves on big holds. Finding some underclings can take the sting out of a few of the moves. Keep climbing up, finishing with a difficult rightward traverse to clip the chains.

The broken crack system to the right of Goldmund. Start in some crumbly rock to gain a ledge about 10 feet up. Pull a roof, then the climbing eases up with a few harder moves up top. Top out the cliff and rap from a tree. Gear up to BD #4.

Shares the first two bolts with Nomad then moves right to a roof bolt. Pull through the roof and finish on Vagabond.

Hard bouldery start and finger intensive.

Traverse in from the ledge or stick clip and boulder up from ground on some sandy rock to reach the main face.  Make some long reaches on good holds on the vertical face before tackling the overhang as the climb trends up and right into a black streak.  Grab a shake at the last bolt before the final few moves to the chains as hanging the draws on the anchor may be the crux for some.

Down low crux(first two bolts) that tests your finger strength early. The pain will subside as you cruise up bigger holds to the finish.

Starts as a slab and finishes as vert. Well bolted.

Start off with a thin, somewhat slimy, boulder problem to gain a solid jug. Continue from here on consistently technical terrain to a slightly sandier finish.

Start on crimps and balance your way up to a large hueco. Continue up on better holds to the anchors.

Punchy climbing with some hard moves and slopers near the top. Another good one at Monastery. Might be a little stout for 12d. 13a?

This route heads up on mostly good holds with a couple distinct crux sections, the first of which comes midway up the route on a few pockets. Move through more large holds and large moves to a great rest near the top of the route. Figure out the final crux and clip the chains.

Layback the flake and muscle up to a ledge then use another right facing flake to get to the third bolt. It eases back for a few bolts including a complete ledge rest after the 6th bolt. More shenanigans await around the 10th bolt so use the rests.

There are a few lines on this boulder, each is about V0. The clearly developed problems are the obvious arête and sloping rail feature, respectively. See topo image.

This handcrack on the left side of the wall is sustained for the 5.8 grade. Delivers high quality hand jams.

An easy looking slab has the crux down low between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Continue past a bulge at the 4th bolt to finish on more slab.

Boulder and slab up into a well protected dihedral for the first half, then steep and fun for the second half.

Start up the short dihedral right of Fatal Funnel. Thin between 5th and 6th bolts where wall kicks back.

Once your eyes adjust to the darkness, step right into a chimney. As you scrunch up, plug gear around the deep side. 30 feet up is a ledge where the light is better. Climb the flake another 20 feet to the anchors.

After the start in the obtuse dihedral, follow the left angling crack past a bulge.

Start up a small crack to a ledge below an orange face.  Make a few moves up a block to clip the high first bolt and then make an awkward mantle move to reach the 2nd bolt.  Delicately make your way up the white/orange face below an overhang encountering a slab crux along the way.  After hanging a draw on the chain in the steep section, enter some crumbly rock before the chains.

Bouldery start and sustained. Second half of climb backs down a notch.

This crack angles up and right with good protection. Crux near the finish.

Thin gear for the first 20 or 30 feet then much better as you head around the left side of the arete and angle up left to the anchors.

Longest line on the wall.  Step lightly on some frail appearing holds with thin moves through the first few bolts.  Grab an undercling below the bulge looking inside first to avoid a buggy surprise to reach jugs and the final run to the chains.

A short vertical climb.  Start on thin crimps as a stem or with terrible feet on the face as the originals have exfoliated and move up to a shallow hueco with a good move off an undercling.  Continue up on decent crimps to the chains.

Pretty much straight up vertical with good finger ledges.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Monastery