A hard route for the grade, with no pro down low.  It would be easy to get injured slipping off the holds down low, which are surprisingly insecure for such good edges.

There is more protection as you get about 20' up, but that is past the crux anyway.

Down low get into the center area of a broad, black streak and find some good-angled crimpers - set feet and heave up onto higher holds, eventually heading slightly right to the right side of the back streak.  A few small nuts could be placed there, then continue up and left passing a few intermittent cracks and potential placements as you go higher (and the climbing gets easier).

The crux is down low and not really protectable, so consider a TR, which can be done on Camalots up above the climb.

To retreat, belay the second up and walk off, or walk down to some anchors across an edge (to the South) and rap 40-50' to the ledge.

Going Down In it

Flaked Out

5.9 Crack Right of 5.8 Crack

Right to Life

Phaedra

Five Eight Crack

[Getting] Down On It

Ethereal

Phantasm

Apparition

Like a Junky Tying Off for the Last Time

Stairway to Purgatory

Up Above It

This is a short but fun route up the far left side of the cliff.

This is not a bad route. It has an all-too-short section of great flake jamming, with some interesting climbing both above and below that section.

Spot the flake and climb up into that from below, doing the route's crux to reach into those jams. Follow the 2-3" flake up to its top and onto a ledge.  Make less secure (slabby) moves off of the ledge to the top of the rock and put in a belay or directional with a few #3 Camalots.

Scrambling off of this ledge is possible to the East.

The crux of this short crack is at the bottom in the first 10' of climbing.  It is easier up higher.  This is a better looking crack than 5.8 crack but it still has a lot of lichen on it.  The crack looks more appealing than 5.8 Crack and it has better climbing but it is too short to be a destination route.  It is an all right climb to do as a warm up if you are already at this crag.  There are lots of face holds near the crack.

Climb right in the main, enormous dihedral of the crag.  You can stick right next to the left wall the entire way, or take a variation 2' to the right that can be climbed from the same anchor.  The rock is cleaner than it looks.

I'm really not sure what the hell is the deal with this route.  Two meandering bolts, some bolts w/o hangers and bolt holes, and poorly placed anchors for easy TR access suggest the equipper might have been high.

Follow the first distinct line (2 bolts) to the right of the giant dihedral corner.  Thin face climbing leads to a right-slanting crack finish.

Follow the lichenous, somewhat crumbly crack system, pulling over a slight bulge near the top.

This is a brief line just right of a blackish section & left of a few bolts on

Apparition

&

Phantasm

.  It's probably worth doing if you are at the crag.  It feels somewhat strenuous for its brief length.  There is a bolt anchor to the right or trees a ways back.

This is a challenging, little line with bolts and gear just R of

Ethereal

&

Apparition

.  You can start on Apparition & move R to chase the bolts along the arete here.  It is quite thin at its top.  11b climbers may get a spanking.

This line lies between

Ethereal

&

Phantasm

on the left side of Cenotaph Crag.  It starts with a couple thin cracks over a bulge, past a bolt, pin, and a bolt. The top is quite thin.  Opposition seems key.

This is a classic route up the corner just above the dead tree. It is deceptively hard.

Stairway to Purgatory is a moderate route with some reasonable climbing, but it is nothing special. On the right side of the South end of Cenotaph Crag, a few meters to the right of the more obvious route, '

Flaked Out

,' a left-facing corner is the prominent feature.

Climb up into and beyond this to the top of the rock, placing gear wherever possible along the way. Belay off of boulders up top using the rope of cordelettes, and descend via a scramble to the East (shortest option) or up and over the crag to the North, and then West, then back down around to the base.

Up Above It is a reasonable route with some questionable gear opportunities.  An experienced trad leader should feel OK, but the placements can be tough to suss out in a few spots.

Start from the ground just down and right of a large plateau of rock that extends into the main Cenotaph corner,

Right to Life

. Climb easy moves up and left onto the plateau and then up and right through a set of cracks. There are a few short cruxes, with the top one being a short move with a wide hand jam for only a few inches, feeling about 5.10b.

Some suspect rock was recently cleaned from the route, and presently it seems mostly solid to me.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cenotaph Crag