Short but stout!  Balancy, hard, and slick moves lead to the third bolt - which is difficult to clip for folks that aren't tall (I'm 5'9 and found it very hard to clip).  Easier, but still engaging climbing, leads to a final sting-in-the-tail crux right before the chains.

Bambi

Guide's Wail

High Noon

Slope on a Rope

Slabadellic

Afternoon Delight  (P1)

Grand Wall-Z Cracks Route List

Thumper

Double Cracks

Moonlight (Thumper Direct)

Z-Crack

Uzi-Waza Variation

Thimbleberry

S.O.S.

Black and grey water stained granite that is worthy of some photos. Route starts by going up and slightly left until the 2nd or 3rd bolt, then traverses right for 2-3 bolts, then up for 2-3 more bolts to anchors. The climbing is (as the name implies) on mostly sloppers the first 2/3rds, the last third (as I recall) is on very this holds and bad feet. Fun pumpey, and exciting.

Begin up SOS and continue on past the anchors.  The first two clips above the anchors of SOS are the crux of the route and include a very technical sequence.  Move up through the sidepull/underclings to a sloper-crimp with the right hand and balance up to a good jug in a horizontal (a small crimp intermediate is key).  Then finish on solid 5.10 climbing for another 50 feet...with a very nice crack finish!

This route goes on forever Start on a slap, pull a large roof with a blind clip out onto the lip of the headwall, stem and crimp your way up a corner, then hop onto a splendid face with descent size edges. This could be considered a low 5.12?

Fun slab route. Crux is in the middle. Standard steep granite slab, i.e., delicate and foot-intensive. Either use the anchors for the Afternoon Delight (easier), or the anchors for Uzi-Waza to the right.

More interesting than it looks.  This route begins with two bolts below a thin crack/seam just right of the huge right-facing corner system on the main wall.  Once past the bolts, work both crack systems (the corner to the left and thin seam to the right) as the opportunities for handholds and gear presents themselves.  Long slings prevent any rope drag.

This pitch, while not technically difficult or hard-to-protect, offers plenty of enjoyable suspense.

A second pitch is available at 12b, but I didn't (um, can't) do it.

Fun line that trends left, merging with Bambi below the small roof.

Low angle slab leads to broken, protectable cracks. Several options exist. The crux for me was an awkward balancy mantle at roughly the halfway point.

Start on Thumper but keep going directly up a thin crack rather than moving to the left. The thin, technical crux meets you very soon after moving above the large pod in the crack.

After the crux, you have to pull much easier moves out a small "roof" onto a ledge which runs you out a bit to the anchors so take care past the last bolt to avoid a possibly injurious fall.

A surprisingly fun 2 pitch crack route on the left side of the main wall.  It doesn't look great from the ground, but it climbs very well and the second pitch is excellent.

Pitch 1 (15m, 5.9) - Start up the layback corner and gain the broken ledge.  Some fiddly gear sees you into the steep/broken corner system, where good gear is available.  The final crux face move is protected by a bolt.  Build a belay on the sloping ledge above the bolt (small to medium gear).

Pitch 2 (25m, 5.9+) - Trend up the right leaning crack, through the pod, and out onto the headwall.  Good gear is available everywhere on this section.  Eventually you'll hit a sloping ledge system.  Work left to the base of the final crack.  Some funky moves (and thin gear) get you through the final crack.  Step left to the chains.

You could link both pitches, but the rope drag wouldn't make it any fun, especially with the crux of the second pitch coming at the end.

Rap the route via chains located at the top.  The chains are located awkwardly left of the final portion of the crack.  Our 70m rope JUST made it with rope stretch, and you would definitely need two ropes if you had a 60m.

If in doubt, bring two ropes!

update!

Went and did the route with a different "70m" rope and the rope DID NOT make it this time.  Fortunately the rope made the ledge about 25 feet off the ground, and easy downclimbing (climber's right) brought us to the ground.  A 60m rope might not make this ledge....

A fun, slabby route that begins towards the right side of the main wall.  Best identified as the only (easyish) looking start to any of the climbs on the right side.  The first bolt is fairly high off the ground.  After clipping the first bolt, follow the lines of bolts up and left to the anchors.  You'll pass a few slabby cruxes on the way.  None of the regional guides give this route any stars, but my partner and I found it quite fun.

Fun, varied, and long. Unprotectable slabby start leads to steeper, but protectable middle. Can belay at large grassy ledge halfway up the wall. Top half (2nd pitch if done in two) is significantly steeper and takes great gear. Final 30 feet is very enjoyable climbing on big positive holds.

Easily identified as the left leaning bolted flake system on the right side of the lower wall.  Fun moves, though short.  The clips may be hard for shorter folks.  The extension past the anchor is (reportedly) 13a.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Grand Wall