This is the obvious left to right slanting crack that dominates the Rush Wall.  "Elegant and strange," say the Ruckmans in their 1998 guide.  It's reminiscent of the insecurity and relentlessness of

Pyschobabble

.

La Villa Stangiato

Rush N Bravado

New World Man

2112

Eh, this one isn't the most secure route you'll ever do. The two pitons are suspect and there wasn't much else up there to supplement them. Decent climbing but my head wasn't quite where it needed to be after seeing the fixed iron quality. Maybe they're good...

Mostly face climbing after the initial crack section of LVS, then head left on face holds to the first piton. Look up and right for 2nd piton, then run it a ways to the last bolt. Top out left of the other routes.

Do you enjoy overhanging quarzite with the most awful slopey crimps you could imagine? Every hold you grab has the texture of linoleum floor and the purchase of a slab? Then this is your pitch. Stick clip the first bolt or you'll end up with a couple broken ankles as its fairly high and cruxy off the deck.

Cross eyed and painless is easier than this one. Ruckmans give it 12a.

Right of the start of

La Villa Strangiato

are two bolt lines, both merging near the right end of the

Stangiato's

crack.  This is the right one.  Climb past three bolts and on to a shelf, place gear in

Stangiato

, and work more or less straight up to the anchors.  Enjoyable, classic BCC face climbing, albeit a bit short.  The Ruckmans rated this 11a, but it didn't seem so to me.

Description

Protection

Routes in Rush Wall