Climb

Warm Up

for about 10' or so and then cut right to the amazing arete. Subtle yet taxing moves up the arete lead to a technical crux just before the last bolt, after which it's a cruise to the top.

This is a great climb that requires good footwork and balance...cooler temps don't hurt either. It's possible to climb the arete on either side, but I found it easier to move to the right side after the first bolt and then cut back onto the left side just below the last bolt.

Blade Runner

Spatula

The Plague

Nawab

Narcolepsy

Shake Down

East Buttress Gully

Low Pressure

Spatula - Direct Start

Zorro Zucchinis from Alpha Centuri Four

Warm Up

This is a short, clean, strenuous, well-protected finger crack.  It is well up from Low Pressure on a short vertical wall.  This climb is in the shade all day.

This climb starts a bit to the right of East Buttress Gully, near the very lowest point of the rock.  It's a thin face climb, with a bolt at the crux move.  Walk off to the right from the ledge at the end of the route.  This climb is in the sun until mid-afternoon.

This mediocre crack and face climb is easy to spot - a prominent left-facing dihedral to the right of East Buttress Gully.  Walk off to the right from the  ledge at the end of the route.

This is the first crack system to the right of East Buttress Gully.  The first pitch has a mix of crack and face climbing.  A clean, tight squeeze chimney on the second pitch is the crux, but it eases quickly after the first few moves.  To descend, scramble left and up to the top of the buttress, then do a short downclimb on the far side.

Narcolepsy is a steep finger to hand crack. The crux feels like its within the first 5-8 ft (getting into the crack) where there is a slight overhang to it. Some of the moves are strenuous almost bouldery moves. A generous helping of features on the outside adds for creative and fun climbing. It takes good pro and there seems to be good rests for placing it. Awesome exit to the top. It goes somewhat quick, so savor it. I wish it was longer, would get more stars. Its not in the new guidebook, so if you're looking for it, you'll have to consult the older Vogel/Gaines book.

This route has nice climbing, but it's quite short.    It's just before the very top of the right wall of the buttress, in the dihedral to the right of Warm Up.  Well-protected liebacking and jamming lead up this crack.

This is a pleasant two pitch crack and face climb up a very obvious gully.  It is very near where the approach trail first meets the rock.  To descend, scramble up through a notch at the top and do a short downclimb on the other side.

This is a short, steep lieback on good rock, with easy hand jamming above the roof.  The crack will accept wired nuts or tiny cams, but it is very difficult to see into the crack and place gear while leading.  Fortunately, it is easy to set up a toprope.  This route receives morning sun.

Route starts just to the right of

Nawab

with a bolt protecting a thin crux move. Move up and right to join Spatula at its first bolt.

Rating and "R" are from the book. Cruxes are well protected but the second bolt is pretty high up.

Tricky and unprotected start through a thin-ish flake, fun slab moves.

Description

Protection

Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Right Side