Refer to Umpqua guide topo AF pp. 158. Consistently challenging with a great view of the valley below. From the ground follow bolts up the left side of the west corner to a shallow cave. The route continues up from right side of the cave up the arete to a belay ledge on the rock shoulder just below the summit block. From the belay climb to and up the summit block following the path of least resistance. Left side of summit block tends towards 5.10a while the right side tends towards 5.7. Rappel from rappel/belay top anchors to uphill saddle, no chains.

Rincon

Chutes and Ladders of Karma

Gallows of San Palo

Mantles of Magdalena

Hangman

Balanza

Devil's Door

Crux of the climb is within the first 15 to 25 feet (5.10a). Some of the more difficult moves can be avoided by starting on top a small boulder. The remaining ascent is well protected 5.8-5.9. Overlooking the valley this route provides a great sense of exposure. Downhill E. face of Inca Rock. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. Map 12 page 157 and topo Af page 158.

Crux is within the first 25 feet of this climb. It includes two thin challenging (5.9) mantel moves route joins with Gallows of San Palo ending at two bolts before summit head wall. Rappel back down (no chains) or summit by way of Hangman (5.10a/b or 5.9 A1). Route requires some brushing at the beginning of each season. However Inca and Orphan Rocks are now in an open clearcut so once cleaned routes should remain clean. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. Map 12 and topo Af pp. 157-158.

A consistently challenging but well protected climb up Inca's north face. Because of its north aspect Hangman is one of the last to dry in the spring and requires an annual spring brushing. Now that it sits out of the trees, once cleaned it should remain so.

A Short 15 foot ascent to a madrone and large ledge, then a scramble to the summit block above. Rappel of top anchors, no chains.

A few really cool multi pitch sport climbs ascend this sandstone spire.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Inca Rock