These two routes are left of Bouldering Sucks, accessed by crossing the drainage to the west. This route is the right of two routes tucked into an alcove. Boulder up to a ledge, then climb the gigantic loose flake...don't worry, it's fixed....at the top of the flake, shake that thang! After doing the shake-n-flake climb the corner system to a ledge.

Shake-N-Flake

The Ole Switcharoo

Whats Left of Kyle

Stay Tight

Squirrel Nut Zipper

Lampwright's Street

Blowing Your Lobe

Coping Mechanism

Macie's Pinnacle--Standard Route

Shell Shocked

Bouldering Sucks

Old Men

Corn Syrup and Weed

Polar Opposites

Spider Sanction

Up Yonder

Pleasant Disappointment

Dustin Stevenzes Route

Climb the splitter finger crack over a low mini roof. Climb up the well featured crack until your reach the first of three roofs. All three roofs are easy and fun.

Work your way up the face to the right of the corner. Chimney your way to a ledge and get ready for battle. Launch into the crack and and figure out the best way to spin around...and the best way start...and the best way to navigate the root ball roof at the top. Will be great once it gets chains. Enjoy the top out in the mean time!!!

Climb the left crack of the two. Pull past some strenuous moves and then cruise the easy crack to the top.

Classic! Start up the off fingers crack to a bulge with two cracks in it. Climb up and place high, then get it together. Launch into crimpy, balancey climbing up and over the bulge. Pull into the bomber, but hard to protect flake and climb up to a ledge. Move a few feet right and launch into the perfect finger to hands crack. Super...duper...fun.

Fun easy route that serves as a great warm up. Start at the base of the pedestal and lay-back and jam your way to the top of it. Lay back the right facing dihedral to chains. If only it were longer....

This is a short, clean dihedral that ends on a big ledge.  There is a tree at the beginning.  Climb the crack to the ledge, traverse left to top out, and rappel from a tree.

Locate the splitter finger crack to the left of Spider Sanction. Climb the splitter to a good rest, just before the angle kicks back. Place a crucial piece(tcu or tri-cam)in the mail slot to the left. Get your boulder on and work your way up the flairing crack. Grab a rest, if you can at the ledge, then tackle the one more boulder problem to the ledge. Wild and exposed!

Start same as Blowing Your Lobe, but traverse hard left on the horizontals above the cave. Once your reach the arete, blast up jugs and plates, placing stellar nuts along the way. Pull a roof, climb a spliter, and finish up a wide crack, that doesnt need to be climbed like one. Awesome route!!

This route climbs the pinnacle on the east side of the approach ridge. Climb the crack to a sketchy flake. Pick your way up the face on friable holds to the top.

Start on the right of two cracks that run up a heavily featured face. Traverse left to join up with the crack on the left. This route is fun, but has a lot of loose rock.

Start beneath the splitter thin hands/finger crack and make some boulders moves to gain it. Jam and lock your way to a tree with slings. Rap from here or get adventurous and climb into and out of the heuco\arch\cave thing. Rap from a higher tree.

This is the splitter crack in friable rock immediately left of Lampwright's Street. Take care with soft rock and climb straight up to the ledge. Rappel from a tree. Better yet, lead Lampwright's Street and toprope this route.

Climb the dirty but secure start to a good hand crack and a fun layback section to chains.

Start underneath a large roof and scramble to the top of the boulder on the right. Reach out and get some gear into the roof crack. Get ready for battle as you pull into and around the roof. Once established above the roof, cruise on great holds and good movement to a ledge. Catch your breathe and tackle the final roof to a short lay back to the chains.

Start in the fist crack then pull yourself in the chimney. Depending on the time of year, you may have to battle spiders for space in the chimney. You can find gear along the way in horizontals. Once on the ledge, bust up and left onto the face. Rap from chains.

This route is located on a ledge about 60 feet up the wall. It can be easily spotted when the canopy is thin. It is a left facing dihedral. The route has to be approached by an adventurous vertical bushwhack, that requires roping up.

Locate a nice looking splitter hands and fist crack. Take that up past a tree and up a ramp. Finish on the top via an offwidth.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Kentucky Wall