Fingers and tips in a corner bring you to an awesome small roof finish. It is one of my new favorite routes in the creek! Bring your stemming game for that smaller than tips section!

Friction Pig

Tiffany's Mall Tour

Unnamed Left Facing Corner with the Stacked Blocks Start

The Violator

Stubby

Hot Sex

Unnamed Fingers in Left Facing Corner

Sinbad Was a Dog

Act or React

Peg Leg

On the Rocks

Meltdown

Manifesto

Full Cavity Search

Fission Quest

Lady Bird

O The Big Black Dog

Road Block

Monticello Cop Shop

Spittness

Nuclear Fingers

Numbing the Tip...aka unknown 28

Dirty Old Man Crack

The Big "O"

Breakup Sex

Walk the Plank

Rope Around Yer Ankle    AKA (Noose Up)

A very cool hourglass chimney, which goes from a full chimney down low to a big squeeze and then back out again! Lots of gear and jams nearby, so you can either commit to the steep back wall and jam your way through, keep to stemming or chimney climbing the outside, or do a mix. The cracks in the back go from thin hands or off-fingers to some OW. After a small roof, begin to move right towards a good bolted anchor.

start in camp first thing in the morning in your tent with the worst pop song from the 80's blasting in yer mind. think Tiffany.. a sweet thin hands to fingers crack in a chimney that widens to hands to a open book with cupped hands in the back great rock all the way this thing is crisp

a nice fingers to thin hands crack. some foot holds for laybacking down low help keep it pretty mellow.

hands to some cups to some fists stacks arm bars then squeeze to some rad moves to the anchors...

Start up questionable terrain to jugs. Route then goes to slight overhanging hand crack to an off fingers traverse to the anchors.

Tight hands and hands in a left facing corner. Clean dark rock and some face features make this a great first indian creek route.

Would be a classic if more folks knew about it. Climb a short section of fingers to a ledge, then launch on a much longer section of splitter fingers and off fingers to the chains. Decent stems and footholds abound!

Salty old dog of a climb...mostly flared wide hands in an angling crack, but you do get a couple rests. Narrows down in the last 30 or so feet.

70m rope barely gets you back down - ignore guidebook's length!

I spotted a very faint route name scratched into the rock just right of the start. I could make out something like: Actor Reactor or Act or React..

Excellent hand crack with powerful and steep start. Difficulties drop considerably afterwards with cruiser hands, big feet holds, and a couple of pods. Decent warm-up after the initial bulge. Anchors are set a bit far back on the ledge. Easy enough to hang a TR on Violater to the right from this ledge.

Beware of how/where you place cams after the bulge. There is a stuck #2 like 4 ft back in the crack that most likely got pushed back by the rope due to the angle change. Clean every piece on the way down.

Short, unimpressive, low-angle corner that is primarily 1.0".

Leaning thin hand crack in a shallow corner. Dirty low angle start leads to the crack. Some junky rock. Step left to ledge with anchors

Start in a steep right-facing off-fingers / thin hands crack below a bulge, pull over the bulge and follow the low-angle wide hands crack to the anchors that narrows towards the top. This route is fine, but it's nothing to write home about. The guidebook gives it 3/5 stars, but I wasn't as impressed.

BEWARE: there is a very large detached block directly below the start of this route. It has chalk on it, but DO NOT PULL ON IT. We marked it with an X since it shifted when one of us pulled on it, but it might be necessary to access the 5.9 section of the steep crack at the start of the route. This route would likely be harder without it, which is why we didn't trundle it.

Left facing corner with a hand crack that turns into hands in the back of a slot. Fantastic rock that hasn't seen much traffic as the edge of the crack is still quite crisp.

Good warm-up. Fingers through hands in a left facing corner up to a ledge. Shares anchors with "Nuclear Fingers", the route directly to the right around an arete.

In a chimney, thrutch up in side with .75 crack. Flip around and squirm on up to good stem. Work out right on unlikely face moves to a bulgy face climb to a ledge with big bolt and a manky pin... its good

Starts as large slighly flared crack, tapers down, and eventually ends up with short section of easier fingers.

This route starts with blocky face climbing for about 30'. The first few moves are in a shallow right-facing corner in the middle of the wall. The remainder of the route follows a finger crack through various features (shallow corners, small ledge).

I thought this to be an excellent intro finger-crack route, as there are only 2 short sections where the climber must make moves without good feet. In both cases, the crack has excellent finger locks (for most people).

This route holds sun for most of the day in late November.

Very powerful start with creative legwork and thin tips jamming up to switching corners with fingers, off fingers, and ringlocks. Finish with thin hands crack to the anchors. Straight forward to access anchors from the route to the right for a TR.

This was pretty dirty and sandy and has probably only seen a few ascents. Fun out-of-the-box-type movement.

Starts in a flair with butterflies for little hands and fists for bigger hands (easier for big hands).  Gradually tightens down to hands.

This is one of the most fun routes at the crag! A thin crack widens from tips to a ring-lock before a big jug. Stand on the jug, then enjoy a fun hands traverse with good feet out to the left around an arete. Business is the first few moves off the deck. Shares anchors with "Fission Quest" The route in the corner to the left.

Right leaning finger crack through wedged block.

Karl's book says this route shares an anchor with #27. During the onsight I decided not to make the awkward traverse right to the shared anchor but instead turned the small roof on fantastic rock (.4 protects above roof) and continue another 20' to a natural stopping point below the massive roof, and installed a 2 bolt independent anchor. My left ring finger went COMPLETELY numb for about a hour after the first perfect .3 finger lock at the start.

Splitter right off the ground fist to squeeze

Squeeze your way past a bolt at 3/4 height to the anchors on top of the pillar.

Here you are, looking at the crack. You've been in it before, you know the game, you know you shouldn't, but you itch for it, you do anyway. You slide a #8 in, surprised at how loose it fits, it wasn't always that loose... you dive in anyway. Its starts out well, almost how you remember, pleasant even, but it quickly widens, you go deeper but it's just not the same. Something's wrong, this isn't what it used to feel like, you reluctantly slide out and access the climb. It's dirty, it's loose, it's not what you want. What happened? How long have I been gone? You pull old tricks outta the tank and find yourself standing on a large death block, staring back into the crack. You're proud you made it this far but your mind's racing, you shouldn't be here, your protection fell off, Can I bail? Will I hit the ground? How soft is this rock? Amidst the anxiety you crack a smile a remember a trick you used back in highschool. You clip on some homemade pro and commit back to the climb. Wait, did this pro hold last time, did I get lucky, did it break? You can't remember but you're climbing again, and now you gotta finish. Its awkward, its dirty, you wiggle and squirm, its soft, but now you're on top. You feel empty, you wish there was more, you wish it was better, but this is the end, and you're never going back. It's time to part ways but there's no bolts, there's no easy way down, the climb is keeping you and it's ruining the experience.

Climb fingers in a right-facing corner up to a 15' horizontal roof.  Undercling out the roof and pull up onto the nose of the roof to find the chains.

Fantastic pitch.

Start on a small pedestal bench on the far left side of the wall . Climb OW to squeez to full chimney to a free standing tower.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sinbad Wall aka Nuclear Wall