This awkward route starts on somewhat easy terrain and moves into a shallow chimney with two hand cracks. the crux is moving out of the chimney and onto the face to the left. Once you have mounted the large block continue moving up onto a run out slab of fairly solid nubbins until you reach anchors at a sizable ledge above with old style bolt anchors with rap rings. the anchor is old but doesn't budge.

Cornerstone Variation

Spiderman

Squashed Spider

In Harm's Way

Harmer

Captain Fingers

Best Left to Obscurity

Stiff Little Fingers

Necromancer

Explosive Energy Child

Spiderman Variation

First Ascent Crack

Out of Harm's Way

Fragile rock for the first 25 feet leads to a funky but awesome right facing corner crack, out a small roof to the left and then into an easier hand and finger corner crack to the top of the wall. PG 13 rating is for the first 25 feet which is easy climbing (5.6) on not the best rock. Can start in the small gully to the left or you can go straight up the broken face to the corner.

Spiderman is one of the great moderate trad climbs at Smith. This crack on the tuft is surprisingly solid and has some surprisingly exciting moves for such a moderately graded climb.

 Pitch 1: 5.6 Begin on the right side of a large ramp. Climb up a right angling crack to a bolted anchor on the left. . . or continue on and link up pitch 2

 Pitch 2: 5.7 Continue up the hand crack in the dihedral above. Belay at bolt anchors on the face.

 Pitch 3: 5.7 From the belay move right into a seam that quickly opens into a fingercrack. Take this crack to the improbable roof. Pull the roof and continue up easy climbing to a chain anchor on top. Watch rope drag!

 Alternate Pitch 3: This easier but less popular variation lacks the luster of the regular finish. From the belay you can take the crack heading up and left avoiding the roof.

 Descent: You can rappel the route with two ropes but pulling the ropes can be nasty.

 A walk off descent to climber's right requires a bit of scrambling but is potentially less hassle.  There is occasionally a fixed rope to assist the descent.

Previously a popular solo route is now a nice bolted route.  Despite tricky moves right off the ground this route would make a great first lead.  The low angled slab requires nubbin pinching and balance but gives several nice rests. 

  Begin at the bottom of a large fan of rock below spiderman.  Go straight up the face on bolts to the spiderman first pitch anchor. 

  Rap route (be careful!! a 60m rope barely makes it)

The crux of In Harm's Way is the approximately 30-foot long right-facing dihedral that leads to the ledge that's "Harm's Way".  The dihedral has no bolts but can be easily protected with SLCD's (An alternate start is to climb the first section of Cornerstone to the "Harm's Way" ledge).  Leave the ledge and romp up the fun nubbins and knobs to a nice belay ledge and anchors.  Although there is a second pitch very few climb it.

With a sequencing that might make you think twice, and stances that are good enough to think four times, this route require a bit of balance, no endurance, and a close bond between you and your feet.

 Beginning on small edges, continue upward into traditional Smith nubbins. Between the second and third bolts, pull off a slabby high step crux to a nearly-no-hands stance, and clip off of a "peanut". Continue two more bolts to the ledge to join the bolted half of In Harms Way for an enjoyable and easy romp to the anchor. 

 Stays in the shade until about 2pm during early summer.

Far left side of Spiderman Buttress, about 200 feet up the loose sandy slope. An initial 5.5 R trad line or a much more recommended short 5.9 sport line with 4 bolts (Stiff Little Fingers), lead to a big ledge and the start of Captain Fingers. Captain Fingers starts from the ledge with 25 feet of strenuous finger crack and eases into a finger sized corner crack and then easier low angle cracks to a two bolt anchor with no hangers. We left two beaners to rap off with though. Apparently a walk off is possible as the route used to top out on the ledge above the current anchor.

despite what the guide book says, I would say it's not all that bad if 10a soloing is your jam. Oh, and make sure everyone below is cool with playing "dodge the falling Boulder" before beginning your short jaunt to the chains. It starts with standing on a good sized block and stepping onto nubs. In a few short moves, you'll gain the ramp. At that point, simply walk the left leaning ramp (avoiding the obvious loose blocks) to the chains at the top of said ramp.

Short four bolt sport line that is the approach to Captain Fingers. Easy climbing leads to a vertical face with knobs and pockets to a big ledge.

The route starts to the left of Spiderman.  follow a small dihedral up about 15 feet (you can place a 1.5 friend in the top of the dihedral crack), then up and right past 2 bolts (crux).  gain a thin crack that goes up and back left (5.9) to the belay.

This is a really fun climb, done Trad as a single pitch, or as the start to Spiderman.  There's really no crux to speak of (on this single pitch), just sustained, fun, climbing.  Be very careful if lowering off, as a 60 M rope might not quite make it, and downclimbing the last few feet might be required.

A small finger crack to the right of Spiderman.  Great route to practice setting nuts; you can zip it up real tight if you want.  Highly recommended as an intro to placing trad pro.   

  Two bolts at the top for a great anchor.  Once the TR is set, the slab to the left, between Spiderman, is a fun face to play around on.

Aside from Cosmos, this route is the best pebble-studded face climb I have done at Smith.  The setting, rock, and lichen are all beautiful and so is the distance from the swarming hordes on the front side of the pass. 

  Jam and lie-back a small, right-facing dihedral to a comfortable ledge.  Pumpier than it looks.  Clip a bolt, then step out onto the face and tiptoe up endless pebbles to the anchor.  This moderate, somewhat sequential climbing is a treat.

Spiderman buttress is home to many classic moderate climbs.  As one of the most popular "backside" areas there is often a wait for the most popular routes here (spiderman).  Climbs here have a spectacular backdrop of cascade peaks.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (p) Spiderman Buttress