Epic climb starts out of a roof jug haul to an awkward mantel into the money splitter and final haul up a thin flake to the anchors.

Voodoo Child

Brushmaster

Amber

All Along the Watchtower

Voodoo Mamma

Rainbow

A burly 3 pitch feast of jamming and plate climbing up the left side of Voodoo Dome, served up old-school style. Superb!

P1: Jam the vertical right facing corner for 100 feet with few rests past an obvious horizontal crack to a small ledge on the left when the corner crack is pinching off. Gear belay. 5.10

P2: Exit straight left (5.8, not 5.10 as the guidebook says) on an airy traverse until you can reach big holds and pull up and right. Climb up the ramp to either a bolted belay (use only if you're rapping here, 2 ropes needed) OR continue climbing another 50 or 60 feet to belay on a good ledge below a vertical wall.  5.8  Gear belay.

P3: Head up the steep crack with plates and knobs to a rest, then another steep section to the summit cap. 150 feet, 5.9

DESCENT: Scramble off the back side and head down left between Voodoo and Big Sleep back to the base

Start up an obvious ~20 ft. dihedral, at the top of which is a cruxy bulge. Continue up a short right-slanting crack to a small roof. The bottom of a long water runnel is on the right side of the roof. Climb a tricky move past the left side of the roof to a stance just right of a thick flake. One reachy move up and left gains the top of the flake (#4 Camalot protects this nicely). From there, yet another cruxy move from a right hand pocket leads up a right-slanting crack and to the water runnel. Easier climbing heads up to the top. Double-rope rappel from chain anchor.

Staring into a slimy waterfall with a pool of water at the base, the route doesn't look too appealing, but the last 5.11 pitch is wild.

P1: (5.9+, 60m) Bypass the wet and get into the 6" offwidth. Struggle to the top.

P2: (5.8, 20m) Chickheads to roof

P3: (5.11b, 30m) Various cracks, starting with fingers, eventually widening to hands, and then a short traverse right to a ledge. After the ledge, you break out left for the last 10m of the route. Definitely not thin hands to the top. Gear was on the thinner side for this last section to the top, 0.3-0.75, mainly 0.5's though.

Might consider breaking it up into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (with the optional belay at a ledge). The drawn topo in the guidebook was on point, but the written description was quite off. Also, as of May 2018, there's a medium sized (the size of two stacked microwaves) block right at the lip of the ledge that rocks and should be avoided.

Descent:

We couldn't find the baked slings the guidebook alluded to, nor any rap anchors. We scrambled climber's right towards the trail that goes down the climber's left side of Voodoo Dome. There's a brief 4th class section to get to the trail. You may be able to sling a large knob to rap off, but we were concerned about getting the rope stuck.

Fingers to hands on a pretty good crack (great crack for shuteye) under a massive roof with a wild heel hook move to get on top. Wicked fun.

== Detailed Beta ==

Start with fingers in the obvious crack until they become hands at the curve. Now start over with thin fingers widening incrementally until good hands and awesome hands into the lichen under the chimney. A high hand jam followed by a solid left foot jam to move your body onto the overhanging arete with good right hand on lip. Press hard against the arete and walk your foot out to a depression before swinging a to a heel hook around and pull hard up. I partially sat on the lip as I pulled myself up and moved into the finger crack. Walk up the crack delicately and reach anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Voodoo Dome