This quality route unfortunately suffers from a no h-hands ledge rest in the prominent cave that splits the two difficult sections.  Begin with difficulty up an overhanging scoop just below the triangular cave.  After the rest, head left, then up on thin, sharp crimps.

The Way Up

Double Roof Dilemma

Blow Your Own Horn

Shortest Straw

Roadside Attraction

Faith Based Promotion

MoFo

Lesbian Thong Trot

Ooze Move

Rejuvenating Facial

The Science of Deduction

Road Rage

Three Pipe Problem

[Redacted]

Easy Air

Li'l Darling

Midline Crisis

This excellent line offers technical crimping on immaculate rock.  This line is devious throughout, but always seems to provide a key jug just when you need it.

This recently bolted line, once popular as a TR, now makes for an excellent jug-hauling sport climb.  Surmounting -- you guessed it -- two roofs, this line snakes its way over excellent pink stone with many stem-rests and large holds.

Interesting movement through some smaller roofs.  Do not pull off handhold near the third clip.

Crack climb, only 5.7+ if you traverse from crack on right. Loose rock most of the way, but still a lot of fun.

Technical moves near a bolt down low the gear the crack.  Exit left to a ledge at the larger upper roof.

Awesome climb with an incredible roof crux.

This excellent juggy line makes for a great warm-up for the crag's more challenging lines.  With great rock and a nice position, this is a great introduction to the Pecos.  It's possible to up the ante to 10a by veering right just below the top.

Interesting stepup near the roof in the middle of the climb.  Better to traverse right to the Mo Fo anchors to descend.

Start up Easy Air, clipping the first three bots. Mantle onto the ledge and move left to the thin crack. All the gear for the crux section can be placed from this ledge but it's really tough to do onsight and you won't be able to see the upper cams real well. Now climb straight up and finish right to the anchors of Easy Air.

Climb straight up from the ledge at the bottom then trend right to anchors.  Don't pass up protection placements.

The line and location of the bolts allows for two variations. The quality line stays left of the bolts on the arête. This version is the 5.13, three star variation, but it is also possible to duck right to a chossy jug and cop a rest on the big ledge. This probably drops the grade to 12.d and deminishes the quality as it disrupts the flow.

Go straight up the bolt line underneath the giant roof. The face climbing is excellent, but exiting the roof/arete is the crux. Every move on the route is great. Though the crux is very pumpy.

The holds are a little difficult to find but the technical difficult is moderate.

Face climb below the roof, place a large Camalot and trend left to a rest.  Step right and up into a shallow dihedral, the crux, then continue up to a separate anchor.

A nice trad lead although the rock could be a bit better.  Don't pass up protection opportunities and all is well.

Cathedral Rock is the main Pecos crag, and offers many of the best routes on excellent rock.  This rock faces west-ish, and so is shady in the a.m., and sunny in the p.m. 

  This crag offers a number of pure trad lines, on mossy slabs and steep, roof-y dihedrals.  However, the numerous well-bolted sport climbs are the main attraction here.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cathedral Rock