Climb big holds and a fun crack up to a dihedral and above.

A 5.9 variation moves left after the 7th bolt to the anchors of "Peking Duck".

Yellow Peril

Tsunami

Shogun

Wrath of Khan

Osama bin Gotten

Beijing

Tiananmen Square

Tsing Tao

Confusing Confucius

Aurora

China Doll

Heart of the Sun

Enter the Dragon

Yin Made Me Do It

Dim Sum

Mandarin Orange

Peking Duck

Marco Polo's Boys Go Dirty Dancing

Good Fortune

Kung Pao

Geisha Girl

Ghengis Khan

Manchurian Candidate

Happy Ending (Geisha Girl Extension)

Beijing Extension (11c 35m/12b 40m)

Feng Shui

Child of Light

Fortune Cookie

Corona Extension

Borealis

Cornercopia

Go For The Gold

Chicken Feet

Terracotta Warrior

Yellow Streak

Silk Road

Corona

Face climbing to a steep bulge with some hollow sounding holds.

For the "Peking Peril" variation, clip a draw to one of the anchors, traverse right, and finish on "Yellow Peril" (70m rope needed).

Start on Tiananmen Square (10c, 5 bolts).  Climb past Tiananmen anchors up the increasingly steep dihedral.  Pull a hard move over the bulge and try not to pump out on the technical face above.  Anchors replaced 3/2012.

A wandering route that is chossy in spots.

Technically, this route starts with Ghengis Khan although you can also start on Kung Pao.  I prefer the Ghengis Khan start but the Kung Pao is equally as good and to me a bit more sustained.  Above the shared anchor, climb up to the left facing corner using great holds, bust out left on positive but small finger holds paying close attention to the feet,  continue up on positive holds to the final steep finish.  For me the crux was fighting the pump to make the last clip before the anchor. 2 rappels to the ground

This is an extension of Heart of the Sun. Continue straight up above the anchor passing 3 bolts to a large ledge below a steep headwall. Clip a bolt and bust steep moves to the last right facing jug just before the angle lessens. Instead of climbing straight up to the bolt on the slab above, traverse left to a welcomed rest around the corner. Reach right to clip, and then continue further left into a right facing dihedral. Climb  as high as you can in the corner before traversing back right to clip the next bolt. Continue up past two more bolts to finish at a three bolt anchor/lower-off.

With a 70m, lower back down to the Heart of the Sun anchor. Pull and lower again to the ground. Not sure if a 60m will reach to LPL. With a 60m rap twice. You could also do this climb as a second pitch if you don't mind a hanging belay. In that case, a 60m works fine to lower. As a second pitch, it has 10 bolts.

Good face climbing but slightly runout.  Starts with good but slick edges, up to a side pull crux section at the second bolt.  At the third bolt, the climbing eases and begins to move leftwards eventually joining Tienanmen Square for its last 2 bolts.

This climb has sporty bolt placements.

Climb up and left towards the first bolt.  Beware there is a tricky move before some good flakes are reached below the 1st bolt.

Climb up and clip the 2nd bolt, now quickly commit to the crux moves.   Good holds are soon reached and continue all the way to the top.

Climb a rising left line of bolts.   The crux is passing the 4th bolt.   Pass a small overlap and climb easily up to the anchors.

Aurora is the awesome overhanging line on the far left side of the Great Wall of China. The route starts off with vertical climbing until you get to a small ledge that provides an awkward but decent rest. From the rest blast up the overhanging headwall with good holds. The last few moves are pumpy and a little dynamic.

Steep face.   Climb up trending right to the second bolt.   After this make a tricky left traverse towards the 3rd bolt.   Continue on up with moves left and right all the way to the anchors.

This climb seems fairly stiff for 5.8.

Amazing vertical face that gets harder the higher you go.

One of two (Fortune Cookie is the other) short climbs that lead to the prominent ledge between Heart of the Sun and China Doll.

Decent route to get while you wait for you route to open up or for a warm up.  Slight trick to the first bolt and then mellow to the top.

Fun route that has cleaned up over the years. Vertical edges lead to a hidden hold to gain easier ground in less than perfect rock up to a somewhat chossy bulge with nice pockets. A hard to clip spinner  leads to lower angle technical edges and pockets and ends with a tad exciting finish.

Start on a slightly wandering vertical face with sculpted looking holds to a ledge at the base of a gently overhanging wall.  Crank up on good juggy sidepulls and edges.  Tricky moves at the second to last bolt lead to an easy vertical section below the anchors.  Long and fun with only one hard section.

Climb Fortune Cookie and then continue up face.

Climbs the wall to the right of the obvious right slanting crack / seam (Ghengis Khan).

The climbing passed the 1st three bolts is both fun and technical.   A little easier than its neighbor Ghengis Khan.

The remainder of the climb involves pulling jugs all the way to the anchors.

Originally bolted by Louie Anderson in the 90s this route never saw much traffic until some bolts were moved in 2011 (with permission) for better clip stances and to avoid a groundfall above the 2nd bolt.

Start right of Beijing going direct straight up a fairly blank technical face with excellent rock quality. Bouldery and cruxy down low with enduro 5.10 climbing to the anchor around 60 feet.

Climbs the obvious right slanting crack / seam.

Attack the seam with determination.   After clipping the 1st bolt commit to a couple of good finger locks to make progress.   Good holds are soon reached at the 2nd bolt.

The remainder of the climb involves pulling jugs all the way to the anchors.

A new route. At times it feels a bit close to its neighboring routes, but has a distinct finish in the upper headwall. Not as hard as Mandarin Orange next door, but with a longer crux sequence.

Generally follow the line of shiny new bolts through the lower angle start. Cop a good rest before launching into the slightly overhanging headwall. The crux is through this headwall and is figuring out how to use the available holds.

Continue above the Geisha Girl anchor for 3 bolts of steep 5.9ish mellow climbing. Get to a good stance on a small ledge and clip the first of 5 more bolts on a steep face with pockets, crimps, and excellent rock quality. Once you start the final last 5 bolts it is game-on enduro, technical climbing that will make your forearms melt. Clip an anchor at 35m.

To 35m: Climb straight above the new Beijing anchor into easy climbing for a few bolts. The route trends up and right through an obvious dihedral system. When the dihedral starts to trend straight up it becomes pumpy with an awkward crux over a bulge in the dihedral. Stand up over the bulge and clip the chains.

To 40m: From the 35m anchor at 11c do a huge move right to a mail slot, then another reachy move up and left to a good hold. Clip one bolt then do a bouldery move to holds and a delicate finish at another anchor above at 40m. The rock is not as good on this extra section but it has been extensively cleaned. It adds a super fun hard boulder problem at 40m with clean air time. If you have an 80m rope and want an extra challenge go for it!

Scramble up some easy third class to an awesome head wall with the crux up high. Long draw on the first bolt helps drag (or skip it if your confident).

Was an open project in the guidebook.

Stellar pumpy vertical face with a distinct crux up high.

To the right of Heart of the Sun.  Short but worth a tick while you wait.  The first moves require a thought and then cruiser to the anchor.

Take Corona to the tippy top by bouldering through a final dihedral.

Given 13d in the latest guide. The word is that the rock could use some traffic.

A newer route on the steep headwall. It splits left from Aurora about 2/3rd way up. The moves are more technical than its neighbor. Cool holds and very nice climbing - still cleaning up and bound to be mega classic.

Two pitch route with the first pitch rated at 5.10a and the second pitch rated at 5.11b.

The first pitch climbs next to a crack and is about 90 feet or so. The second pitch is a steep dihedral and is beautiful. The crux is getting out of a small overhanging section after clipping the third bolt. The climb gets easier up top, where good stemming is required.

Note: The second pitch enters the corner directly above the first pitch anchors. The route does not climb the overhanging arete to the left of the corner.

A must do for trad climbers who find themselves wondering why they spend so much time in the Gorge.  IMO, the most memorable pitch at the Great Wall, though it gets very little traffic.

The lower half is easy face climbing with a couple of bolts.  The upper half is an remarkably smooth crack that widens from fingers to hands.

Fun climb. Shares an anchor with Silk Road.

A fine fun continuation of China Doll. The crux is passing through the overhangs that then leads to a fun moderate head wall to the anchor.

This is the 5 bolt extension of Tiananmen Square. The climbing is characterized by good holds every 3rd of 4th move with thin crimps and pockets in between. The steepness and length make for a fun a challenging route. 70 M rope required.

Well protected moderate route on China Wall, enough said.

Shares an anchor with Chicken Feet.

Begin up the first pitch of the slightly loose Cornercopia, 10a, and head to the looming, rounded buttress above.  A large, grainy and rounded flake will help you gain access to the blunt arête (figure out for yourself if you enter lower or higher!).  Once on the arête slap through good edges, doing very fun dynamic moves to good holds and cool pockets that always appear when you need them most!  Shake out...

The top houses the crux and goes through a blocky section of intricate moves, especially when compared to the wild section below. A long lock off to a hidden crimp is the business.  Head leftwards to the anchors via a cool gaston flake and then a few lock offs to those two happily dangling draw. Have fun!

Description

Protection

Routes in Great Wall of China