Pinch, pull and crimp your way up the face

Bob's Bubble Gum Attack

Goatse's Back Door

unnamed slab

Inferiority Complex

Pandora's Choss

Pandora' Box

Cocaine Crack

Scrappers

Unnamed Black Streak

Foxy Lady

Donuts for James (sit)

Donuts for James

Duluth Style

Grandma Bubbles

Quick Fix Crack

Return of the Seagull

Fox Fork

Security Apreciation

Knappogue Slab

Open Project

First climbed ground up trad in 2007 with sketchy protection but has had two bolts (plus anchors) added to protect the crux.   This was originally rated 5.7 then 5.8 but people whined and suggested 5.10 (BS!) so we rated it 5.9 so as not to sandbag too badly.  It's a good safe lead now...   Solid start to a sequency and balancy crux that asks you to bear down hard on a crimp.  Follow the water groove up using the crimp to a side pull and then shoot for the horn!  Climb mellows above for 15/20 feet to the anchors. 

The route is chossy and may be easier using roots shrubs as aid.  The crux is mental as you hope not to fall back upon the steep approach.

Slabby climbing the center of the cliff. Use decent sloppy holds till you hit the thanks god jugs at the top.

What could be an amazing climb fizzles after 8 feet!  Splitter crack in a dihedral and then pretty boring 5.1 climbing.  Could be a good first lead for someone who is really new!  Not a bad solo...

Start the same as Pandora's Box but hang a right at the crux.  The name says it all!  Not a hard climb but the protection sucks!

Finger crack below Quick fix crack and to the left of Foxxy Lady.  Probably 5.9 and could be combined with quick fix crack if you are really desperate in get new climbing in.

This route begins to the left of the obvious black streak.  Work upwards.

Stay within the black streak.  If you step outside of it, you arent doing this route.  Start on the large hold, reach for the right hand pinch and high step.  Next, head towards the pocket with a left hand and figure the rest out from there.

Standing start on invisible crimps to a side pull.  Bump your feet up and gun for the topout.

SDS for donuts for James on decent holds and poor feet.  Pull your butt off the ground and bump your right hadn straight up to the slopper.  Move into the double underclings and finish the same as Donuts for James.  Adds a lot of difficulty

Up the center of this boulder/cliff band. Undercling, step up and dyno for the rail.

Start on the left side of the boulder on a crimp.  Figure out the feet (be creative) and reach up for a left handed undercling.  Get here and you're as good as done with it.

V2ish boulder problem at the bottom with no protection until you are 10 feet up.  The climb mellows quickly with good protection.  Has seen two leads, two solos and a hand full of TR ascents.  Stout route and destined to be a D-Town mini classic. 

  There are now permanent anchors at the top of this climb.

Not a bad crack for a quick fix!  If this started from the ground it would be a boulder problem - but the ledge it starts from is 15 feet up so the fall would be big.  Easy first lead and good for learning how to place cams and hexes...we might use this one to teach!   This would have had a vile name if Andy had done it first...established on rope solo.

SDS on sharp crimps on the arete to the right of Foxy Lady.  Follow the arete to the top out.  All face holds are off.

This line follows the crack the whole way, anything outside the crack is off. Sit start to obvious crimp and crack next to it,up to the small crimp up and right off of the crack then to top.

A nice little crack that heads left to some scary blocks which may or may not be loose.  Pull on them carefully but don't place protection on them.  A fun little romp! 

  First lead on-site by Andy McMurray with two pieces of protection, neither of which was small enough for the crack or safe enough to hold a fall (hence the name).

Sweet slab climb on dime edges with a sloper mantle on top...There are a few horizontal cracks to make it easier if need be...but you should avoid them for style points!

A few ledges then up to a large bulge 10 feet off the deck with poor holds.  Get out there and send this.  Crux is pulling the bulge and toping out. Grade is approximate, you send it and let me know.

Foxx Rocks is a collection of two small outcroppings and one larger cliff - Lower Fox Rock, Upper Fox Rock and Fox Face.  Lower Fox Rock is up to 20 feet tall and features a few highball bouldering problems...only one of which has been done yet.  It will require more cleaning and a developement session.  Upper Fox Rock features a single slab problem and possible potential for someone with vision.  Fox Face holds a few bouldering problems and 7 or 8 roped routes from 16 feet to 40 feet tall.  The best routes to date on this side are Pandora's Box (5.9+) and Grandma Bubbles (5.11a R). 

  There are now permanent anchors on Pandora's Box and Grandma Bubbles.  Please use your own draws and biners to extend the life of the anchors!   Thanks...

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Foxx Rocks