Great technical slab moves.

Climbed this route in the 80's with Chris Savage and called it "The Kiss of Virginia Edwards", although it had probably been done before this.

Up the thin face, past a pocket to a ledge, mantle onto this (crux), then tackle the thin face above.

The Rollercoaster

West Face Complete

Traverse of Carousel Rock

North Face

Center Direct

South West Corner

Face and Crack

Face to Jug

Night Train

North West Arete - Left Side

North West Arete - Right Side

Center Route

Start just right of the tree, as with Face and Crack, or even stand on the trunk. Hop on the balancy start using a couple of crimpers. Move up and to the right via a sequence of tight hand and foot moves until you get your fingers wedged into the nice horizontal crack. Aggressively work the crack up to the committed topout on the top right.

Start at the easy way up (aka the descent) on the south side and go left (CW) around the boulder to start where you began, finishing with a rather appropriate final desperate, drowning in a sea of lactic acid, lunge.

Strenuous, delicate, slabby, fingery, and nowadays very iffy (broken holds on the west side). A great outing.

Beware of bees on the west side, doing it on a cold day should be okay.

Up to the skull shaped pocket and utilize it to gain a pinch on the right, now up and mantle.

This is sort of an eliminate, but a really good one.  Start from the side pull between Face and Crack and Center Route, or sit start (same grade).  Go up to the pockets below the bulge.  Turn these into underclings and reach up onto the sloping bulge with bad feet.  There is an intermediate and a knob up high right.  Mantle!

Try not to use any of the holds on Center Route... especially not the juggy crack.  Really fun.

Crux is probably bumping up to the knob, but the mantle is good too

Some nice moves on this one.

Knob and feet to a vertical handrail. Step on the knob, yard over then mantle.

Some tricky face moves to a good pocket - now slightly left with an undercling to an eroded flake crack and the top.

Thin face leads to a balance move for the jug - once you have this it's time to commit - small jug and much better jug up high, now up the grainy, slippery slab.

To the right of "Rollercoaster", just right of the arete there is a face climb called "Night Train".

It goes up over the undercling, then follows the middle of the face up and through the highest point.

A great problem.

Lieback up to the left of the arete and then make a knarly reach for a small jug just right of the arete, now compose yourself and go for the top up the grainy slab.

50/50 on this one - a thrilling exercise in slabdom.

Up tenuously onto the slab, grab the left edge and inch your way upwards to a better hold then committing but easier ground.

A tad scary.

Chalky slopers to a huge undercling (crux) - now a committing move over the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Carousel Rock