A bouldery start, followed by easier climbing above.

The crux is down low, getting to and clipping the 3rd bolt. The second clip is pretty awkward as well. There is also a bulge after the penultimate bolt that could be difficult.

The rock is quite sharp and leaves tiny, bloody holes if you aren't paying attention.

May I Take Your Order Please?

Jungle Rot Slot

Driver'sTest->Run for Cover

Batman

Learners Permit

Flashing the Eave

Screen Printer

Telemarketer

Roughneck

Honey Dipper

Drivers Test

Ditchdigger

Snatch

Fluffer

Roofer

The Paper Route

Superman

Coyote Certified

Air China Flight 924

Stable Boy

Rib Braiser

Mucker

The crux is a bouldery start to the first bolt, then it is fairly easy cruising the rest of the way to the anchors( probably 5.6 to 5.7 after the start).

The rock is sharp and rough, but reasonably solid. Small, sand-sized particles fell throughout our climbing, but nothing large (shop goggles would have been appreciated for the belayers, actually).

This route tackles the long ridge to the right of Coyote Certified.

The first pitch is mostly 4th class with the occasional 5th class move, and belays beneath the first of two pillars.

The second pitch climbs the pillars directly via good crack, and belays on the top of the second pillar. From here move the belay to a good ledge beneath the obvious face.  Pitches 1&2 link with heinous rope drag.

Pitch three follows the discontinuous cracks pretty much straight up the face, taking any pro that's offered. Belay at a ledge, though it's tricky to set up the belay.  At this point you can escape off right via ledges.

Pitch 4 can be broken into two pitches, which is best. First follow exposed but easy ledges left until the ledges end.  A fifth class move of two puts you on a ledge at the bottom of a weird chimney/corner thing, with a crack going out the roof at the top. It's recommended that you belay here.

Weather or not you do, climb the opposition moves to the crack and follow it out the roof. Pulling around onto the face is the crux (awkward 5.8) then some easy moves lead through a notch to a bush. Belay off the bush.

Slightly overhanging cruxes are in several places along the route. The rock quality is good but since it follows a natural drainage beware of gravely ledges. Bring a helmet and you are fine. The mental crux is right at the top.

Got endurance?

Batman

is a juggy, severely-overhanging pump fest.

Scramble up the dark tillite to a slightly columnar section with a number of juggy protrusions on the right. Clip the first two bolts (in the tillite) long and get on top of the last of the tillite.

The third bolt is in the lighter quartzite, and it's here that the business starts. Gently overhanging for the next two bolts, and then it gets steep. Move fast on big holds. After several bolts of steepness the angle eases again to gently overhanging, although the pump at this point may be strong.

Note that the anchors were moved higher after the

Jobsite Middle and Right 7 [[106696230]] 5.12a 8 Rib Braiser 5.12b 9 [[106458564]] 5.11c 10 [[107040311]] 5.12a 11 Reaching for the Capillary 5.12b 12 [[106703181]] 5.12a 13 [[110369453]] 5.12a 14 [[106169032]] 5.12b 14a [[106671800]] 5.13a 15 [[106670181]] 5.13c 16 [[113719133]] 5.12a 17 Project 18 [[106561851]] 5.11a 19 [[106122172]] 5.10b/c

was completed; the route continues up for five more bolts past the illustrated anchor position.

Cleaning this thing top-down is strenuous; see if you can sucker someone into toproping it.

Length

If you belay from the base of the route a 60m will probably work (although I've not tried it), but you can't see the climber above the roof and therefore many people belay down the hill before the tillite and in that case a 70m is required.

Little shorty on the leftmost side of the wall. Starts almost inside a little chimney. We over bolted this on purpose. It is quite short and easy so with the 4 bolts it is a PERFECT route to teach leading on (hence the name). Actually it is still really fun.

An ever-steepening romp up the alabaster choss-fest to the left of

The Jobsite

overhang.

Start by cruising on huge holds up near-vertical rock through four bolts. Continue up (trending left a bit) through steeper and steeper terrain past sharp rock with disconcertingly knife-like, vertical edges. Arrive at a much blanker section below the roof and figure out the next couple of moves while fighting the pump.

A wonderful, juggy roof problem awaits, with a last trick or two above the roof before the chains.

A tricky start with small feet, crimps, a gaston, and careful balance until you reach the waiting jugs above.

After the clipping the second bolt the rest of the route is primarily  juggy and alternates between steep (vertical) and somewhat less so.

A fun route with a number of big moves between big holds.

After the last bolt the route heads right sharply to the chains.

The crux is the beginning of the climb. The first three bolts are pumper. The rock is sharp and loose but will clean up as it gets climbed on more. Off balance moves at the overhang make this climb fun.

At the fifth bolt stay left; another line, the multi-pitch

Sunday School Arete

, branches right at this point.

Shares the same start as Stable Boy but instead of going left, go straight up. Belay in the alcove and use the directional bolt down low to keep the rope out of the way. Continue up then slightly left around a bulge through a series of hidden edges, jugs and crimps to surmount the overhanging face.

Honey Dipper

is a unique climb for this part of

Rock Canyon

. It's gently overhanging and could produce quite the pump.

For some weird reason it reminds me of

License To Thrill

in AF. A great route to wire and stay in shape on.

It's unique because in the quartzite section of RC, there isn't an .11c that's this long and a slow pump builder.

A lot of the climbs on

The Jobsite

are named after terrible jobs. A honey dipper is the person who sucks up the crap out of outhouses and septic tanks.Sure sounds sweet though.

New route to the left of the 5.8. Bouldery start leads to staircase climbing.

This is one of the best 12b's in Rock Canyon especially the lower half of Rock Canyon. Hard start followed by a shakeout, then a hard move, shakeout, over and over again until you arrive at the anchors thoroughly pumped.

After the 4th bolt move up and left, if you go right you'll end up on Mucker. It doesn't get much better than this for steep, thuggy climbs.

The start can be harder for those under 6', Bill found a cool trick to make it the same grade for shorter climbers. Email me if you would like me to give you the beta, otherwise good luck on your onsight!

A fun, moderate, bolted, multi-pitch route on less-than-stellar quartzite.

Snatch

adds two pitches above the routes on the left side of

The Jobsite

.

P1

Climb any of the four right-most bolted routes on

The Jobsites

left side, clip the chains and keep climbing to the base of

Snatch

proper. Youll see hanger-and-ring anchors at the base of a wide dihedral with a black streak down it, just below a small bush. Approximately 75 feet.

P2

Make a tenuous couple of moves through some crumbly rock to the first bolt and then continue up through seven more bolts of better rock. The crux is a small overhang after the last bolt, then onto a ledge with the anchors. Approximately 80 feet.

P3

Follow the first three bolts, angling slightly left and then bear right a bit for the next couple of bolts. Pass to the right of a gnarled juniper and follow the last two bolts up a shallow trough. Continue in line with the final two bolts to the chains. Approximately 100 feet.

To belay the second up P3 youll probably want to extend from the chains a few feet to stand comfortably on a ledge.

Descend via three single-rope rappels.

A steep, juggy, pump-fest that'll make you wish you'd lost the 10 lbs.

Start up a right-facing flake with big handholds and flaky footholds. Clip the second and third bolts enroute to a bit of a respite before the upper section of pumpy, burly moves that take you up and over the top. Don't miss any holds or you'll wonder what Andy was thinking when he rated this. Clipping the sixth bolt is quite strenuous.

A tricky start on attractive (but chossy) white rock begins this adventure. A thin, technical first crux in an unexpected location, and looming steepness lurk above.

When the exposed, strenuous, overhanging finale that surmounts the apex of the A-shaped roof is reached, body positioning and using your head rather than pure thuggery will see it through.

All in all, a very enjoyable route.

disclaimer* A key hold has broken off and made this route much harder. The rating is unknown.

Start climbing on cool horn and pocket-like features on the Mineral Fork Tillite. Get to the quartzite and make a cruxy move on a crumbly, yet surprisingly solid side pull to a good jug system.

Move left and utilize crimps to get to a fantastic jug. Move even farther left to reach a great two-hand jug right below an extremely steep face with a glued hold on it. Either make an extremely dynamic move (fly) or a tremendously powerful static move (fight) from this glued hold to jugs that seem forever away.

After this crux section, follow the steep jugs to chains, fighting the pump.

Do you have what it takes to be like Superman?

Crux is probably right after the third bolt. Actually really good climbing despite the lose rock. The top is a funky mantle on somewhat cemented sand.

Yee haw! This line offers a good ol fashioned trad adventure in an increasingly domesticated canyon. The climbing is never too hard but the protection is just sparse and/or sketchy enough to keep your attention. The rock ranges from perfect (bullet quartzite on the first pitch) to kinda chossy (white Jobsite-esque stuff on sections of the fourth pitch), but is pretty good overall. Climbing this line will make you feel hardcore, even if youre not.

I recommend that anyone who gets on this route be very confident in their climbing ability and ability to place trad gear. While the climbing is never too hard, youve got to keep a cool head. Dont let that scare you away, though. Its a fun route and hey, its only 5.8, right? How hard can it be...

Check out route and beta photos to supplement the beta below. Pitch lengths are approximate.

Pitch 1: Start climbing in the cleft just left of a diamond-shaped feature. Follow this crack past a couple bushes and a 5.6 crux or two to a big ledge. The climbing is better than it looks. Set up a gear belay in a crack in a rock on the west side of the belay ledge. 5.6, 185

Pitch 2: Start up the nice-looking-but-short cracks in front of the belay, past a couple ledges. This will bring you to the base of another relatively steep cliff. Get some gear in and make some devious moves up the face, getting gear in some horizontal cracks and pockets. Head up to a bush/small tree, sling the tree, and belay on the large, sloping ledge above the tree. Use the wide crack (at the base of where the cliff meets the ledge) and a crack a few feet above it to set up the belay. 5.7+ PG-13, 165

Pitch 3: Walk/traverse right and down along the ledge, avoiding and passing a steep, dark, chossy dihedral. Climb up to a bush and onto the face above. Dont place any gear until you get onto the face above; rope drag would be absolutely heinous. The climber will be out of sight from the belay once he passes the bush. This pitch is similar to the previous pitch in terms of gear and climbing, but is a little easier and not as steep. The quality of gear is about the same, maybe even a bit worse. Belay at the base of the next cliff/pitch on an obvious big ledge. Use a short vertical crack to set up the belay. 5.7 PG-13, 120

Pitch 4: This is the most exciting pitch of the route, and is also the crux. Start in a shallow corner and climb up near the left arête of the cliff. Head toward a small roof. Instead of turning the roof, follow a crack that goes up and right, toward the corner/dihedral. Follow this to the top. Gear placements are relatively plentiful, but the rock is not very good in places and some of the cracks are flaring. Belay at the top using a couple horizontal cracks. Solid 5.8 PG-13, 95

Descent: From the top of the last pitch, walk north and then east into a drainage/basin, following the path of least resistance. Youll soon be at the top of a scree slope and see a tree growing in a notch in front of you. Instead of going through the notch, head north up some tame class 3 slabs (at the top of the scree gully) and then cut east along a vegetated (grass and some small plants) ledge system. Follow this over and then down. We found a faint trail that took us down toward (but a little west of) the Appendage. Follow the trail into the stream bed and back onto the main trail near George.

An old Ohran project that was open for many years. This route is the direct start into the Mucker (number 14 on the topo). The rock is good and the moves are quite powerful.

Belay in the alcove and use the directional bolt down low to keep the rope out of the way. Clip the first 3 bolts from an undercling, then step down to reverse your hands to start the route. The first few moves off the deck make up the bouldery crux. The 4th clip is difficult and close to the ledge, so make sure your belayer is aware of this. Two more moves and you're into the Mucker.

This Roofer variation spices up the first third of the route by climbing through a thin section of rock with few choices (none of which will make you smile). Smart feet, a little thought, and some commitment on bad holds will get you through the section to a hands free rest before joining Roofer.

No crap to shovel out here. This route is is one of the best on the Jobsite and possibly one of the best on Rock Canyon's quartzite.

A Boulder problem start gives way to tricky drop knees, high steps, and dead points. Below the steep roof offers a few breather holds. From there, a big cross over leads to a "not so extravagant rail". After a difficult clip, one must catapult with all that's left to a hold that is sweeter than anything you can imagine. Oh, but wait. It's not over yet! A few semi difficult moves add to a splendid redpoint crux that could send some flyin' and cryin'.

Enjoy!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Jobsite