Caveman Odyssey

Subduction Zone

Gondwanaland Man

Ode to Sha're

Primordial Lichen Soup

Continental Drift

Your Substrate Makes My Lava Flow

Land of the Lost Portal

Breaking Up Is Hard To Do

Tectonic Plates

Start in a grungy corner on slightly hollow stone, placing small gear until you can mantle on top of a blocky pillar. Stem or jam out of a small roof, clipping the first of 3 bolts, and negotiate a flaring section of crack using small edges, large ominous flakes on the left (don't pull out!) and the occasional lieback move. The crack reopens after the third clip, letting you dive in and out of the cheese wedge on good gear. Cruise up the excellent lieback flake until it gets thin and hollow and a large bush appears (la touffe!!). Dodge both choss and vegetation by exiting the crack and heading right through dark rock on huge horizontals rails (formed by solid stacked blocks). Take a breath and launch into the bulgy headwall, using sidepulls and crimps to get past 3 bolts on excellent black rock. Don't tunnel vision at the top or the last moves will be heart breakers...

I'd say 2.5 stars for a long and varied ride, 3 stars if it weren't for sections of questionable rock inside the crack which forced the addition of a couple of bolts.

The first route in Pangea begins in the chimney with the obvious crack on the right side. Stem and chimney your way up placing good gear in a variety of weaknesses. The route holds a top crux after the steming. This route was done ground-up and still has a little looseness but is much better than it appears form the ground. Worth doing if you are in the area. We originally topped out on the FA if you aren't interested in hiking back to the chute.

A shot moderate crack with a fun cruz. It's worth doing if you are ticking all the moderates in the area. Continue up the crack past the thinky cruz, once the pro runs out, move right to join the sport route to the right.

As of August 2020, this is the first route on the right-hand wall after you enter the hallway behind the Tower of Darkness. Chimney up past a couple bolts and then left around the arete and onto the face. Continue up the face through the crux to easier climbing below the anchors shared with Caveman Odyssey to the left. Crux may be reachy if you're a shorty.

Start on the arete and clip the bolt on the face to the left.  Follow the line of bolts using face edges and occasionally the arete on the right. There are fun and thoughtful moves on the face that are well protected.

Start on the right side of the west face of what is now being called the "Star Gate Tower" on a very easy crack. Traverse left to the first bolt. Using the arete, continue up the bolt line to chains with a quick link. Excellent view from the top of this tower!

This off width is fun!  I know you do not often hear those words spoken, but here it is true!  Perhaps it is the unique location, perhaps it is the length or quality of rock, but I think what gives this line the fun factor is the old-school liebacking needed for the first 20 feet (the crux), in any event, (I know I sound like a drug dealer) try it, you will like it!

Plate tectonics is a scientific theory which describes the large-scale motion of Earth's lithosphere, broken up into

tectonic plates

, under the influence of mantle dynamics, gravity, and Earth rotation.

On the Jungle level, it is a theory which describes the smaller-scale motion of Earth's lithosphere, broken up into

choss plates

, under the influence of gravity and a crowbar.

Begin this geologic adventure on top of a pedestal facing a crescent-shaped hairline crack. A series of intricate moves relying on finger locks, tiny edges and creative stems will get you off the deck and past the first bolt. The crack  pinches out after a few more funky moves, forcing you up and left onto a thin face protected by two more bolts.

Catch a welcome rest in the alcove which caps this section then tackle the thin dihedral above, heading toward a jagged triangular roof. A few thuggy moves will see you through this feature, leaving you a the base of a perfect dihedral crack. Get your liebacking hat on and embark on a pumpy cruise up this ever steepening feature. If you can handle the sharp jams (no tape, the crack never opens to solid hand size), disappearing feet (stemming is cheating) and melting forearms, the anchors await after a final mantle on top of a small triangular pillar.

Note:

the plate tectonics theory was found to accurately represent what we found in the 20' section under the roof. Several 100+ lbs plates and blocks drifted from the wall with very little help. The thin unprotectable dihedral capped with a house-of-cards-style roof cleaned up amazingly well, yielding jugs, solid placements, and barely enough looseness to remind you that you're in the Jungle.

Description

Routes in Pangaea