There are crux moves at the start and finish of this long moderate route offering two potential finish variations.

Off the Radar

Black Sheep Squadon

Vapor Trail

Ceiling Zero

Pilot  Error

T-33

Lockdown

Gray Ghost

Dogfight

Pre-Flight

Sweet Dreams

Sad Wings of Destiny

Shooting Star

Flying Machines

The crux of this route is possibly the awkward start on the arete,

or maybe clipping the anchor above the balancey, pumpy finish. Belay from the alcove just below Sweet Dreams (route to the immediate left) Clip the high first bolt and get established on the thin reddish colored face which angles slightly up and to the right past 4 bolts. Sustained, technical climbing on small edges and crimps.

Around the 6th bolt steep leftward trending moves angle up along a steep ramp  leading to a rest stance before tackling the balancey crimping finish moves. Anchor is slightly set back so lowering could slightly chew the rope. Consider rappelling.

This route is every bit of 5.10d with some long reaches to hidden holds. A fun but loose start gets you up and past an initial shelf where you can safely clip the second bolt. From there this route is surprisingly pumpy and sustained until reaching a giant sheep-sized hueco where you can get a no-hands rest . From there a thin crux and mantle...Great route on good rock!

This route begins by clipping a high first bolt above the cliff base path which at this point snakes inside a narrow corridor. This is followed by an unlikely series of thin holds and side pulls with small edges for your feet. Pass two more bolts before a resting at a ledge and continue up through more thin edges and a bulge or two. The route becomes overhanging as you pass through a sustained slightly chalky section with some sharp pockets and polished edges. As you tackle a small roof the good holds give way and become very small indeed. A series of balency awkward stances and a lieback or two allow upward progress. Desperate!

Thin face climbing past 3 bolts leads into a steep stemming corner on lichened rock. After passing this gain an awkward recess below a powerful crux bulge, and keep your balance on the final steep ledges before the anchor. There are a couple of ways to finish this route. Steve Curtis was the first ascent. Former suitors may want to re-visit since prominent holds previously used are now gone. The lower crux is a LOT more challenging without the “formally” present  shake-out jug/flake.

Pilot Error has some great rock quality and is quite moderate for 3/4 of the route (5.10-). Then the angle kicks back to over-vertical and the pump-fest begins. It quickly becomes steep, powerful and sequential with lots of crimps, back steps, and lie backs past the two final bolts. Finish jugs arrive just in time to get you up to the anchor.

This route begins by performing a height-dependent jump start to a jug followed by a burly mantle. Stand up on a ledge with a no-hands rest. After clipping the second bolt move up and over the bulge on small holds to an overhang and the third bolt. The crux is climbing through a powerful sequence above the third bolt and clipping the 4th bolt from some large sharp huecos. Big moves ease near the anchor. This route receives some morning sun for most of the year, but goes into the shade in the afternoon.

This route was bolted in 2012, but not successfully climbed until Jim Thornburg revisited in the 2020, the year of the “Lockdown”.  A lower angled start leads up left to a stance on a big ledge. After a reachy right clip (second bolt), climb steepening terrain with positive pockets and a few jugs to a slightly awkward rest stance in an alcove. Take a pause, than tackle the steep crux climbing finish move sequence.

Like it's neighbor Pilot Error, Gray Ghost starts out moderate and follows a fun line of holds with plenty of stances and rests. After a rest ascend a steep well-protected bulge to gain a stance on a large flat ledge. Clip 3 more bolts above the ledge carefully climbing through the crux on small knobs. Huge Thank God hold when you need it!

Alec Isabeau (RIP) described his and Bob Merritt's experience on the first lead ascent of this route in May 2015:

"It was full value 100+ feet of mandatory big gear and steep, helmet scraping chimney groveling. More typical of Sierra Backcountry than MSH."

The route is shaded and has a lot of runoff from above so it is naturally somewhat dirty, although much scrubbing, cleaning and loose rock removal took place prior to the FA. This route may clean up someday and be a classic for those who like the "wide" stuff. The face climbing to the right of the crack is 5.9

The start of this route is a dynamic height-dependent "jump start" move to a jug hold followed by a burly mantle onto a ledge and a rest. Stick-clipping the first bolt from the ground protects this move, though you might also try clipping the bolt hanging from one arm with both legs wildly swinging beneath you (gulp!) After clipping the second bolt to the left with a sling or long draw, back-clean the first bolt to reduce rope drag before surfing up and left around the bulging prow of the crag. Small holds, crimps, and some slightly sharp pockets. Big spicy moves before the route lets up somewhat near the anchor.

The first bolt is located in an alcove about a 25 foot 3rd class scramble up from the ground. The belayer and climber should carefully climb up to belay from a stance on top of a large 3’ft. boulder embedded in the floor of the alcove.

Begins with reachy stemming moves on the pinkish-colored face just right of a large twisting vertical off-width feature (dirty). Continue up the LEFT on to the south facing side of the arête, clipping three more bolts on the. The anchor is a bit right of the climbing finish moves and reachy for the shorter climber. Use caution.

This route follows a unique arête feature with lots of interesting movement and good rock. The crux is in the middle of the route. After the third bolt mantle onto an unsecure stance and climb through the steep exposed headwall. After a ledge, fun finish moves bring you to the chain anchor at the rim of the cliff. Sustained !

Move off the sloping talus on to a ledge. A thin vertical sequence follows using small holds on yellowish chalky rock and finally some larger holds, huecos. Topping out is the crux.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Kimball Canyon Crag