Finding the good stem off the flake to the left makes this one moderate.

Kickin' Turtles

Crowheart

Cheesewheel

Blood Moon

Cold Moon

Tyco

Purple Galaxy

Parts and Labor

...in the Whitehouse

Sweet Beguilin'

Krymptonite

Diamonds in the Moon Light

Buzz Worm

South Paw

Macumba

Galctic Tactic

Dog Star

Bunky

Ain't No Mercy

Grabbing Greta

Brush Fire

Climbs arete to steep finish on good pockets. A fun little route.

A nice technical face climb on small edges and good pockets. Start by crimping up the first 2 bolts to a big pocket, grab some very small crimps to reach a nice 2 finger pocket. From here work through another small crimp sequence to bigger holds leading to the top

In front of the burned tree.  Severe technical climb.  Probably damaged from the fire, both the route and the hardware.  Reference point.

Bouldery start to strong pulls for the first 3-4 bolts gives way to interesting climbing for a few more bolts before entering left facing corner. Up through the corner to steep headwall on solid pockets. Save enough gas for the steep climbing through the roof to the anchor. Crux is definitely the bottom.

This routes offers a slow burn to a tricky pump in the upper section. Crimpy holds in the low section lead to a balancy clip at an under cling. Move up on pockets and crimps to a steep pocketed finish.

Bouldery start gives way to more moderate climbing above.

Purple Galaxy busts some bouldery initial climbing up to and past the first bolt, followed by some great sequential pocket pulling. It slowly eases off as you approach the 1st set of chains. Keep going though! The upper bulge adds a nice little punch to the end of the route, with some pumpy climbing and some last minute decision making. For those who track the numbers, probably soft at 12a to the 1st set of anchors, but solid if you take the full ride.

Sketchy flakes off the ground lead to great crimps, juggy slab, deep pockets, a mono, and a you get to turn a roof before it’s all over.  With mostly good rock quality with this is a good warm up for the Achin’ wall or another good 11 in this zone.

A note on bolting - no runouts on this one, at least one long draw is nessary under the roof to relieve drag.

Scramble up to make clip at first bolt.  Consistent crimps with occasional pockets. Great fun.

Climb up decent holds for the first few bolts to an OK shake. The crux comes quickly after when you clip the bolt to the left of the roof. Make some moves off small, but incut crimps for a few bolts until you gain a good pocket to clip from. Then enjoy easier climbing up good pockets to the chains. Not a bad route, it will get better once it cleans up a bit more.

Climb right side of flake then follow flake system up to bulge and then to the anchor. Tricky climbing between 2-3 and then through bulge above flake system.

An interesting and decidedly left armed pumpy climb.  Heads up the left arching layback via strenuous and fun climbing, with adequate but sometimes wish they were better feet.  An interesting transition to the face leads to a short section of pocket pulling before the anchors.

Technical climb by Crowheart and Brushfire.

Ben brought this motherfucker back from the dead!  A Heidi Badaracco vision, then finished by Grif.

It was a dusty relic but now its a classic.  Sustained crimping, good pockets at the right places, bitching sequences, some sting in the tail.

Purple Galaxy good.

Pumpy lower section leads to strong pulls around bolt #3. Up on good pockets and edges to easier climbing (on smaller holds) to the top. Good route reading and lateral movement makes it easier.

Side pulls and crimps keep it interesting.

Starts in seam 35' Left (3rd climb to the left) of South Paw. Tricky climbing leads to steep bulge and then good pockets above.

Awesome climbing on limestone that hasn't been polished yet. A low crux with three fairly tricky spots.

A nice climb up a blank looking panel of stone. The climbing consists of small crimps and a mono getting to the second bolt (easier to start out right on mono), then larger crimps and pockets as the wall steepens, however, terrible footholds. The last few bolts are easy jug hauling. Overall, a worthy climb if in the area

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Routes in Purple Galaxy