Good old corner and crack climbing on good rock

Dude, Where's My Van?

Unbroken Chain

Criminal Minds

Syndicate Fool

The Original Crankster

Colostrum

Whores in Church

Mother's Milk

Mango Boingo

This is probably the climb you came here for– the sharp hanging arete that you can see from a mile away, and with moves that match its position. Unbroken Chain is one of the best of its grade in the area, and a must-do for NRG 5.12 sport climbers.

Pumpy, steep, right-trending moves through juggy horizontals put you at the base of the arete. The crux involves a few moves of pure arete balance.

The crux is from the fourth bolt to the anchors. The rock quality is less than optimal, a LOT of loose rock up high. Wear a helmet and have your belayer do the same.

The line just right of Original Crankster. Shares the first few moves then moves up and left with some delicate moves on slopey edges. Around the fifth bolt encounter some interesting moves with a dive to a 2 finger pocket. Stand up tall and climb some overhanging jugs to a stance below the headwall. It is possible to comp a no hands in the corner, though the purist may argue its off route. Continue up the headwall with standard NRG high step lockoffs on good edges on nice orange rock.

Decent route to do once you've done Unbroken Chain and Original Crankster. may clean up with more traffic to improve the quality of the route.

Delicate slab moves lead to a good rest before the crux.  A short lived boulder problem on thin holds to the top.  This route is a massive gimme for the grade and should be on any grade chaser's tick list.

This recent addition to Sunshine Buttress is a new-school, slightly scary headpoint of sustained, delicate face climbing.  Start on fairly easy terrain, moving out a slightly chossy roof to get established on the face left of Mother's Milk.  Reach faaaaaaaar right to get some good gear in a horizontal before making a series of tenuous moves that embody classic New River Gorge power face climbing– big moves, small holds, delicate and high feet.  The crux involves a small, right leaning crescent feature, with a thank-god bolt just over a small roof.

climb up blocky ground to the base of a steep section.  pinches and flawless footwork lead to the easier slabby topout.  climbs great rock up the center of the prow facing the river. three stars for the route name.

This is a mega-pitch of steep, intricate climbing, but can be a bit dirty due to lack of traffic.

The first bolt is hard and the fourth to sixth is hard. The route is better than it looks, but make sure you have the endurance as you will be pulling out some gunk from three good holds.

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Routes in Sunshine Buttress