This climb is just left of the twin chimney/crack system.  Initially start up the crack "Chimney Sweep" to the right of the climb.  Then make your move out of the crack onto the face in time to clip the 1st bolt.  Continue up past thin crimps, and very awkward body moves.  Clip the second bolt and puzzle out the sequence to the pin.  The hands are terrible for a couple of moves.  Get past the pin, place a piece, and make your move up the incredibly smooth face devoid of any help.  Well any help is kind of strong, but damn!!!  That upper face is so smooth, then when you think you got it licked, reach up for the ledge above the chains.... and scream "falling!!", cause that ledge ain't any help. Fun climb, but what a pump.

Up A Cliff Without a Ladder

Ethiopian Kid

Mr. Sandman

Dream Slate

Suture Fancy

Narcosis

Turn Of The Sentry

No Doze

Involuntary Release

Chimney Sweep

Don't Jump Back Crack

Narcolepsy

Anuresis

Dreamscape

"You're going to climb that?!"

Ethiopian Kid

is

Narcolepsy's

orphan, the "elephant in the room" or crag as it were... Climb the obvious broken or destroyed looking crack up the left side of the buttress. A low crux allows for you to recover just in time to get freaked out again by the integrity of the line's upper section. Sustained climbing from the roof through the upper crack, physical relief will come after the crack turns into shattered munge.  A fun but short line that is impaired by it's deteriorating quality. A mandatory send for the crag tick.

This climbs the left crack (Chimney Sweep) in the deep chimney system until the prow and then works right to the bolts and finishes on the prow.  The crack is easy and enjoyable. When you get to the prow, don't be overwhelmed, as the faces get very smooth and stemming seems to be the key to get out on the prow.  Second, flexibility in the legs and a long reach seem helpful.

This is on the far west end of the Narcolepsy Walls.  It is a bolted line on a North face.  It protects well and is a fun edging climb

This is the crack system left of Dream Slate, that works left of the flake that you put an SLCD in for Dream Slate.  It works through a slot in the roof layer and then angles right, past a tree and finishes within arm's reach of the chains.

The pre-roof crack is fun, just a bit dirty, but fun, and it protects well.  The roof is also fun (not 5.9), but fun.  I felt like 5.8.  Above the roof, it gets dirty, rotten, easy, and almost no gear.  Worth one ascent, no more, no less.

This climbs the right crack in the deep chimney, staying right of the prow.  The climb is easy, protects well, and is enjoyable.

Good Wide Climbing on the far west side of narcolepsy area. Nice cracks, mostly hands with some places a good deal wider. Belay is very awkward to set up. I continued to the top (climb east to attain narcolepsy anchors) and rapped down narcolepsy. This continuation is highly recommended to avoid the walk off to the west. A good crack for the leader trying to break into the grade. It felt a bit soft for a 5.8 to me.

Another abandoned line at an over-populated area,

No Doze

is the quarter inch seam up the face on top of the

Narcolepsy Buttress

. Not much to describe, this line is short and sweet. A burly old 5.10. Bring thick skin and thin gear.

Nice right leaning crack, 3 feet right of the Narcolepsy arete.

Finally got around to doing this route, albeit only on TR.  Definitely worth doing while in the Narcolepsy area!  Sort of soft for a 10a, but a respectable lead requiring some small gear near the top with ledgefall potential.

First 2/3 is excellent, but the rock quality degrades slightly at the finish.

This is the left of the two cracks, left of the Narcolepsy/Dreamscape face.  An easy beginning leads to an awkward steeper section that gets more difficult as soon as Mr. Sandman branches right.  A couple of cruxes, IMO, the first clearing the 1st overhanging section and the second on the exit sequence, will test your confidence.  A nice climb worth doing with some fun jamming and a bit of chimneying.

This climbs the right crack in the chimney on the cliffs just below Narcolepsy.  Don't chimney, also don't fall too far backwards.  A good climb with a few nice jams.

This is the right bolt line on the East Face.  It stays near the arete, possibly utilizing it.  Another fun edgy climb with mostly legs and a little hands.

This is not on Narcolepsy, but slightly below Narcolepsy, right of the approach slope.  It consists of a wide chimney running perpendicular to the trail at that point.  This climb climbs the left crack in the North wall.  Don't chimney.

This climbs the left bolt line on the East face just right of the big chimney system.  The 1st bolt is rather high, but the climb protects well after that.  This is an edging climb that is very fun.  The angle is relaxed enough you almost don't need your hands.  Almost.

Description

Protection

Routes in Narcolepsy Area