Expect to have some awesome exposure! Pitch-1 (50ft., 5.11a): Same start as Inside Passage (10a/b) up the lower portion of the obvious chimney on the far left side of Denial Ledge then veers out left following bolts into instantly overhanging and airy terrain. After about 15 or 20 feet there is a strenuously technical crux with pumpy moves before a ledge rest in a large hueco. From this ledge lean out and pull over the bulge onto easier friction-slab to belay. Pitch-2: ('Goat Cuisine Culture', 70ft. 5.9+): follow left bolt line traversing left and up to a high ledge to a fixed wire-draw and into the crux move around a bulge and rock window. From this point a thin friction-slab move yields to an easier finish and walk-off.

Caution: Rappel from summit to Denial Ledge is >100 feet). Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Topo E page 90.

Buying the Goat Farm

Eclectic Classic

Tabloid Believer

Lucunas and Disconnects

Balancing Act

Twistings

Mind Bender (lower wall)

Animal with a life

Mind Bender

Duck Pond

Climb the Clouds

Underhanded

Alive

Lunacy

Charms at the Inner World (pitch-2)

Reality Check

Levels of Denial (Pitch-2)

Lacuna Bender

Relativity

Potholes of Pluto

Booder Skies

Indispensable Route

Absurd Life

Down the Garden Path (pitch-2)

Denying Denial

Mind Games

Thin Ice (pitch-2)

All or Nothing

Inside Passage

Backward Evolution

Route begins at belay anchors off on the far right side (looking up) of Far SIde Wall (SW Mind Planet) at the corner of the hu-normous overhanging roof and ascends overhangs and bulges (5.10c) before heading into easier climbing to the next set of belay anchors. Second pitch continues up easier Tyee sandstone slab-friction and then mantles over an overhanging bulge (5.11a) onto a friction ramp before summitting. Top anchors are easily accessed but top roping requires the use of several directional. Route is in full sun with great airy exposure over looking the valley below. Requires little annual maintenance. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. Map 1 page 80 and topo F page 95.

The name says it all. Several different types of moves all packed into a memorable pitch. Crux is on the steep slab but the overhanging moves just above might pump you out.

P1: Seventh bolt line to the left off starting of Denial Ledge. Begin by climbing through chossy, overhung rock pulling an awkward crux over a bulge onto a ledge and small cave. Follow the bolt line out of the cave onto better quality rock and follow bolted path of least resistance to share top anchors with Denying Denial.  Rappel back to down to denial ledge or continue Pitch-2 following boltline that veering left though caves to summit (5.12a Refer to Levels of Denial). Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Topo E page 90 and photo page 103.

Begins with a challenging roof pull off Denial Ledge up onto the vertical wall above following bolts to rappel anchors just short of the top. Crux moves are through a balancy slab sequence before weaving through amaze of angled huecos.

Shares top anchors with 'All or Nothing'. Consistently fun slab and balance moves with low exposure. Route requires annual brushing at the beginning of each season. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon 2007 Vol. 2: Umpqua Topo H page 98.

First line to the left of Mind Bender. A short but sustained overhanging and airy climb. Rappel back down to Denial Ledge or continue (left) to summit on the second pitch of 'Charms at the Inner World' (45ft., 5.10c). Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Topo E page 90.

Begins at the Baseline Trail and follows the only bolt line up the lower wall to Denial Ledge. Steep thin friction moves followed by a climb over two bulges. Rappel, walk-off Denial Ledge, of continue onto pitches-2 & 3 up Denial Wall to summit (130 ft., 5.12c). The lower wall is in tree shadows it requires annual maintenance at the beginning of each season. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Topo E page 90.

Tyee sandstone slab-friction leading into diagonal under-clings, then traverse right to join with Animals that Talk. Rappel back down or walk-off north side. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. Map 1 page 80 and topo F page 95.

Description is for the second pitch, which starts at the end of Denial Ledge. Begins with thin, but positive crimps in the overhang. Good holds disappear until right at the crux, where a powerful move off of smears gets you to a "Thank God" bucket.

There is easy-low exposure access and walk-off to and from top anchors. Climb the Clouds starts out easier than its rating, finishing with more difficult 5.7 friction near the top of the route. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon 2007 Vol. 2: Umpqua Map 1 page 80, and Topo H page 98.

Underclings, huecos, and pockets dominate this route. Top anchors 45 feet below the summit to left (looking out, S) of Potholes of Pluto.  Shadowing may require light maintenance at the beginning of each season. Use Pluto top anchors for toproping with a directional on Underhanded or rappel down to the top anchors to Underhanded to establish a toprope. On lead rap off the Underhanded top anchors or climb to the summit on the last 45 feet of Potholes to Pluto and walk-off.

First pitch is .11a/b. Great pocketed face climbing with a crimpy crux higher up. Second pitch is the crux pitch with a big move off of a sloping layback.

Pitch-1: Inside Passage (50ft., 5.10a/b). Pitch-2 (45ft, 5.10c): From top anchors to pitch-1 continue to summit following bolts with a thin friction crux finish and lots of exposure. Walk-off. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Topo E page 90.

Begin on low angled friction-slab and quickly becomes both steeper and thinner as you continue up. Near the top the steepness eases back to 5.7-5.9 friction climbing. Walk-off.

Caution: Rappelling from the top of Mind Planet is >100 feet. Top anchors are easily accessed for a 130-foot toprope. Reality Check requires brushing at the begging of each season.

Second pitch veering left through a series of caves to the summit. This pitch begins from top anchors shared by Denying Denial (45ft, 5.11b) and Tabloid Believer (45ft, 5.10c). Walk-off. 

Caution: rappelling from Mind Planet summit to Denial Ledge is >100 feet. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Topo E page 90.

Same start as 'Lucunas and Disconnects' but quickly veers left after the first roof pull (2nd bolt). Shares top anchors with pitch-2 of 'Mind Bender'. Rappel back down to Denial Ledge or summit on Mind Bender Pitch-3 (80 feet, 5.11b) and Walk-off.

Caution: Rappel from Mind Planet summit to Denial Ledge is >100 feet. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Topo E page 90.

Great .10a that links up with Eclectic Classic below the overhang.

Several fun mantle moves through a section of huecos finishing with thin classic Tyee sandstone slab friction. Stick-clip helpful for making first clip. Top anchors easily accessible without climbing. Route in partial shadowing and may require brush maintenance at the beginning of each season. Brushes can be found in a community-gear box located on the Baseline Trail at the foot of Turtle Rock. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. Map 1 page 80 and topo F page 95.

There is easy-low exposure access and walk-off to and from top anchors. Shares top anchors with Climb the Clouds. Staying with the bolt line to the right of 'Clouds' make for fun thin friction climbing. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon 2007 Vol. 2: Umpqua Map 1 page 80, and Topo H page 98.

Fun closely bolted route that begins on low angled Tyee angled slab-friction and progressively becomes steeper. Great beginners route as long as you encourage them to see how far up the beginning low angled slab as they can without using their hands. Otherwise their balance will be through off their feet making the slab more difficult. For this reason we tend to start a beginner Duck Pond which is steeper before moving onto Indispensable. Both top anchors are easily accessed from the sides for toproping. This route can make for a fun first lead especially for anyone transitioning from the gym to outdoors. Note: Both pitches arch to the left (looking up). Top roping requires the use of directionals and special care is required if rappelled. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. Topo C page 88.

Fun moves throughout this short climb. Begins near a switch back in the trail to the right of Animal with Life. Begins with a traverse right so not a good toprope option. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. Map 1 page 80 and topo F page 95.

Requires annual maintenance to keep clean. Pitch 1 (50ft., 5.6-5.9): any bolted path you want to Duck Pond anchors. Pitch 2 (80ft., 5.10d): from the top of Duck Pond veer left and follow the dirty water-crack through some tenuous dihedral crux moves before following bolts onto the slab to left where multiple 5.8-5.10+ moves lead to a second crux of tricky friction at the finish. Walk-off.

Caution: Rappelling off Mind Planet is >100 feet. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Topo C,D page 88.

Easy moves through the overhang end with a long crux move. Flakes and crimps appear loose at the crux, but they are solid. Great rock and moves above on the vertical wall. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Topo E page 90, Photo page 93.

Starts out with easy slab climbing into an overhang with interresting moves and holds. Crux is above the overhang on slabby terrain.

P1: climb Duck Pond (5.7). P2: classic sustained thin Tyee sandstone slab-fiction that doesn't let up. Walk-off. Caution: Rappelling from the top of Mind Planet is >100 feet. Benefits from light brushing at the beginning of each season. Brushed can be found in the community-gear box at the foot of Turtle Rock. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. Topo C page 88.

Same start as Booder Skies (5.7) but angles right on low exposure balancy friction slab (5.9) finishing and sharing top anchors with Balancing Act (5.8). Requires brushing at the beginning of each season due to shadowing from trees. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon 2007 Vol. 2: Umpqua Topo H page 98.

Begins up the obvious flared chimney at the far left side of Denial Ledge. Climb the lower section of the chimney, then follow the bolt line moving partially out onto the right face. A tricky crux move at the top gets you onto a large ledge and top anchors. Rappel back down to Denial Ledge or continue pitch-2 choosing one of the following three options: a) 'Charms at the Inner World' (45ft. 5.10c): straight up from belay to summit and walk-off. b) 'Traditional Charm' (45ft., 5.9 trad., gear to 2.5 inches): lead up from left corner of the belay with lots of opportunities for placements. c) 'Goat Cuisine Culture' (70ft. 5.9+): follow left bolt line traversing left and up to a high ledge to a fixed wire-draw and into the crux move around a bulge and rock window. From this point a thin friction-slab move yields to an easier finish and walk-off. Regardless of which option you choose to finish on expect to have some awesome exposure!

Caution: Rappel from summit to Denial Ledge is >100 feet). Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Topo E page 90.

Starts with a few overhanging moves with big holds. Continue up the vertical wall passing several bolts finessing crux halfway up. Finish up steep buckets. Enjoy!!!

Main wall with the classics faces to the southeast. Does get some wind, which dries the rock quickly after rain. Excellent views of pasture land below and of the Cascade foothills beyond. Both Mt. Bailey and Mt. McLoughlin can be seen on clear days.    Great rock quality. Lithic Arkose sandstone. Not the sandstone found in the southwestern U.S. but still gentle on the hands. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mind Planet