Big moves between pockets force you left after each of the first three clips. After the third clip, climb up and left (far left), using a hidden foot around the corner to make two huge left hand bumps into a large jug. Catch a rest and make a technical traverse rightward under the roof. Once above the sixth bolt, move right onto the prow using a hidden layback crack followed by hidden jugs to the top. Avoid cheating left into the dangerous gully.

Cupid's Crooked Arrow

Flash Pump

Fourth Dimension

...Except This D

Slice of Life

The Complete Curmudgen

Nothing Is Too Hard For God...

Mac Stabber

Rocks and Branches

Peg Board

Fabulous Dramatics

Pocket Science

GYRO (Get Your Rocks Off)

Johnny Bravado

This route cuts left from the third bolt of Cupid's Crooked Arrow and links into Peg Board via two fixed draws.

Boulder power crux with a heel-toe cam and awesome undercling compression out the roof.

Absolute perfection! After the shared first three bolts with Pocket Science, it heads rightward and pulls into a fierce overhang with some very elusive footwork and cranks through on powerful and sequential pinches and scoops. After a hard-hitting crux, the 5.10 finish feels quite pumpy.

Climb up and left past a tufa, then climb a technical face right of the dihedral towards a white-knuckle crux overcomming the bulge. Throw a rediculously high heel hook at the lip and bump into a precarious layback. Head left past the slightly hidden final bolt into an undercling finish to avoid the poor rock above the mega-jug.

Alternate start to "Nothing Is Too Hard For God." Stick clip the bolt right of the first bolt of NITHFG, then do a fun pocketed boulder sequence heading left into the very start of NITHFG (skipping the regular first bolt). The boulder problem isn't too hard, but it really adds to the pump by the time you get higher on the route.

Clip the fourth bolt of Get Your Rocks Off with a sling, then head right along the juggy crack, clipping bolts overhead. Just right of the 7th bolt, pull through the crux with an excellent hidden fist jam.

Hang on steep jugs while straddling the arête. At the last bolt, heel hook left onto the ledge. The route may be a bit contrived, but it is a great warm up and is surprisingly fun. Much steeper than it looks, falls are clean. Kind of reminds me of a certain climb at Marble Caves...

NOTE: This route still needs to be cleaned up significantly before it is worthy. I'll update later.

Pull off the ground into an undercling crack and a long first crux, relenting only after the third bolt. Traverse the tufa pockets then enjoy an excellent upper section and a second crux. Make sure to find the locker jam just before the finish!

Scramble the northermost fork of tree, slinging branches for protection. Once the cliff is in reach, start clipping bolts step onto the highest branch to reach a jug and pull onto an excellent, technical headwall. Finish on the anchor to the right.

Several days after bolting it, the first ascent was done as a free solo.

Climb southern fork of the tree for 30’ to bypass the challenges of Mac Stabber. Sling the branches for protection, then reach out to clip the second fixed draw. The short crux comes just after pulling onto the wall: don’t whip or or you could get wood up your kiester.

Walk up the hill from the belay stance then climb juggy 5.6 to a very high first bolt. Continue straight up with huge deadpoint-bumps between juggy pockets on an overhanging wall. After landing the crux right-hand deadpoint above the 3rd bolt, catch a two-finger pocket to the left and a heel hook. Follow the bolt line directly to avoid sharp holds. Harder for shorter folks.

This is a soon-to-be classic once word gets out. Step off the dead tree into sevearal big hero throws between good holds. Stay left towards a dreamy line of pockets that traverse the steep wave of rock. A sharp hand-jam rest can be utilized provided you tape your left hand. After clipping the 7th bolt, keep following the pockets down, over, and then back up towards a killer lunge into the roof. Clip under the roof with a long draw then be attentive to follow the worn-in holds to avoid sharp rock.

Lightly pull through some somewhat hollow jugs then continue up the leftward dihedral with a short crux utilizing some large pockets to the right of the 4th and 5th bolts. Somewhat annoyingly technical. A Kong Panic Clip could be nice near the end. Join Cupid’s Crooked Arrow for the last two bolts.

Excellent fun!! Head left from the shared first bolt into an inverted tufa. Cross over to clip the fourth bolt then decipher the tricky crux bulge that feels like it’s all arms. Go big, the falls are clean!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Sanctuary