This long, narrow, steep finger of rock rises from above treeline to the snowy summit of El Dorado.  A mix of 4th, easy 5th and technical rock, the route finding is challenging and the rock quality variable,  all the makings of a true adventure climb.

Most parties will approach via El Dorado Creek and El Dorado Glacier.  The route is meandering due to rock quality but the goal is to stay on the ridge. The primary technical challenge is two gendarmes, one of which is bypassed by a vertical, highly exposed slab traverse.  After the technical climbing is completed, the final 3rd class to the summit is long and often travels through very loose rock.

There is a significant amount of 4th class and low 5th class climbing on questionable rock and working around it will take a lot of time. Most parties will bivy on route or be prepared for a very long day.

West Ridge

North Ridge

Klawatti Peak SW Buttress

Tepeh Towers

Austera Peak

South Ridge

We climbed this as a part of a larger link up in the area. It provided excellent rock for a few pitches of moderate terrain linking to a loose scree (or snow) scramble to the true summit. The route starts at a low point in the south ridge skyline as seen from the glacier. Approach via the flank of the glacier, this slope can be steep and exposed firn, crampons mandatory. The first pitch climbs an obvious crack up the face to the u notch on the ridge. The second pitch climbs excellent cracks on the opposite side of the ridge up to the knife-edge crest. 2 more entertaining pitches of classic B-Basin knife riding bring you to a short downclimb. From here the ridge is quite broad, and when melted will be loose scree. The terrain from here to the summit is mellow scrambling. Descend the east ridge.

The route begins at your point of choice on the ridge and ends right below the summit pinnacle. Climb the path of least resistance on the clean solid rock, mostly on the east side of the ridge. Snow on the N.E. Face makes the route never feel very exposed.

This is 1-2 hour moderate rock route in the viscinity of Eldorado.

Look for the route on the SW side of Klawatti immediately adjacent to the camping spots (about 48.5529, -121.1062). Cross the moat and ascend 2-3 short low 5th class pitches. Scramble the remaining distance to the summit being sure to test holds for loosness.

Descend by down climbing or rappelling the same way you came up. Alternatively, you can down climb the peak and traverse north through a gully to The Smokestack. Circumnavigate clockwise around The Smokestack until you reach some grassy ledges. Follow them down until you are on the north ridge and decend until you can step on Klawatti Glacier. Follow the glacier and ridge down until you reach the rappel station that will give you access to the McAllister Glacier.

Note: You will need a backcountry permit from the Marblemount Ranger Station for the Inspiration zone to camp in this area (

nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/…

). They will also probably stick you with a bear canister.

This is a 30 minute easy rock route in the viscinity of Eldorado. It can be reached in about 45 minutes from the East Ridge camp by heading N/NW to approximately 48.5463, -121.1306. Climb high up on the glacier to where it rests on the rock and cross the moat. Ascend 1 short low 5th class pitch and scramble the rest of the way to the summit. Decend by down climbing or rappelling back onto the glacier from the rappel station directly below the summit.

Note: You will need a backcountry permit from the Marblemount Ranger Station for the Inspiration zone to camp in this area (

nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/…

). They will also probably stick you with a bear canister.

Beautiful traverses of the Inspiration, McAllister, and Klawatti Glaciers. Breathtaking views of the North Cascades, including Baker, Shuksan, Forbidden, Eldorado, Dorados Needle, Tepeh Towers, plus many more. 4th and easy 5th class climbing for about 150' hundred feet to gain the sub-summit. One rappel (and mid 5th class climbing on the return) to get over the north ridge of Klawatti. Easy snow with a couple moderate snow traverses and bumps above and around crevasses. This route is all about the getting there--classic glacier mountaineering!

Description

Protection

Routes in Main Peak