Sit start in the little cave down left from staddlesphere, start with hands matched on a blocky sloper, move right through the cave on good slopers, use large blocky feet and a good sidepull to move up, another solid sloper and good crimp will get you to the lip, mantle over the top or around the left side of the knife edge arete.

Knife Edge

Caridea

Smoke and Fog

This is not Face Rock

Hang Ten

Hang Dog

Brachyura

Slum Dog

Warm-up boulder

Straddlesphere

Start down low and left of straddlesphere, hands matched on a large chunky block, move right and up, through the straddlesphere face area and top out on the shelf on the right.

Stand start in the center of the ugly face, move up through crimps, mini-jugs and pockets to a fear inducing top out. Some of the rock is crumbly so double check before cranking on it.

Three rotten spinner bolts protect decomposing sandstone choss.  Large block would take a cam but not clear that it's attached.  Single rotten 1/4" bolt with rotten webbing for a top anchor.  The top half of the climb has no protection and comes apart in your hands.  No climbing is allowed at Face Rock Scenic Viewpoint State Park.

On the boulder farthest to the SE of the bunch, there is an overhanging side about 11 feet high that looks a little bit like a wave. There is a large slopey volume at the base, start with hands on top, with decent feet below. It’s a one move dyno to the top with a preferable two hand catch, hence the name “hang ten” then top out to finish.

Start as for Hang Ten, hand matched on a large block down and left. Follow the seam up and right traversing across the slightly overhanging face, reach the top right blocky holds and mantle.

Sit start on two jugs, move up the face using pockets, crimps and the right arete. Resist the urge to top out early or pull around the corner, stay on the face and move up for the highest purest top out. A bit of a highball for some.

Sit start down low and right as far as possible. Left hand on a blocky sloper, right hand on a low crimp. Move up and left aiming for the topout of Hang Ten, pull hard on small crimps with good feet and fun movements.

This is the ideal warm up boulder with good slopers, jugs and even some crimps to warm up on, start on the ledge facing the ocean and work your way around the right side to better jugs and then top out. 

This problem is on the same boulder as hang ten, it’s the flattest face and has some fun crimps for intermidiate climbers. It starts on two thumb presses with pretty solid feet. It’s a short but sweet slab problem that moves up to a decent left hand  crimp then a right hand crimp. Then either right or left hand moves to a small jug, then match. The crux is getting good feet at this moment and moving up to the last sharp crimp flake that has one spot that is much more positive than the rest. Set your fingers and slowly move for the top, the back is smooth so you have to feel around for a good hold, move feet up and straddle for the top out.null

Bandon has boulders on the beach. Variable quartz injected sandstone and greenschist. Bouldering accessible from Bandon South Jetty.From Face Rock Viewpoint, access the 5.6x climb on Face Rock Boulder, anchors on top of Sunset Boulder makes for a good beginner spot.  ***All existing anchors are rusted, rotten and suspect.  Due to a phenomenon known as "stress corrosion cracking" these bolts and/or hangers can and will flake to pieces under body weight. Greg Orton's 2005 Rogue guide has info on Haystack Boulder to the south by Haystack Rock.

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Location

Routes in Bandon