Fear Factor is at present the farthest route on the left side of the crag. It starts just left of the obvious chimney and moves up two bolts before striking left. This traverse is a bit contrived as you are only a few feet above the obvious ledge, but the rock and moves above make it worth it. Engage a 5.9 crux move over a bulge, move up, and breath deep as you negotiate an exciting run-out up a superb slab (5.9-). Easier moves lead to the anchor.

Though relatively safe, there are probably better choices for the fledgling 5.9 leader.

Fear Factor

Smoked Crackers

Black Wave

Controlled Burn

A Woman Scorned

Forest Management

Slab Management

A fairly decent route that takes good pro at the crux, which is a crack in a corner about halfway up.  If the good climbing were more continuous this would be a 3 star.  One important note:  the bolted anchors are not visible from the ground or anywhere on the route until you reach them.  The key is to trend left above the little tree on the slab and go around a bulge to a ledge with the anchors.  This is slightly run out, hence the PG-13 rating.

Black Wave is probably the most obvious route on the wall and takes the black streak just right of A Woman Scorned. Belay at a cool hole with a bolt and solve the low-down crux (11a) with layaways and edges to a second milder face crux ending at good holds. The closely-bolted upper wall eases on still excellent climbing to a brief rest at the break. The moderate (5.9) upper wall continues to reward.

This is another outstanding climb that is one of the best easy 5.11 routes at the Head. It is probably not as classic as some others (

e.g.

Dave's Dilemma) but is still close to four stars.

Controlled Burn is the first bolted line just right of the wide crack system on

Black Wave

Wall.  The first crux comes shortly off the ground.  Midway up the route, there are two options for continuing to the anchors:  1) Angle left towards the crack system, with 3 bolts, this is listed as Malt (10.a) in Anderson's guide.  I didn't take this line, as it looked too runout for my tastes without any supplemental gear, which I wasn't carrying; or 2) Veer right to join the second half of

A Woman Scorned

(10c upper section).  We followed this line - the crux of this upper section involves delicate footwork and balancey moves.  Overall a nice route on good granite.  The bolting was well done - spaced further out on the easier sections, well protected on the crux sections.

This route, named after a tragic and infamous arsonist, takes the blankest-looking section of the wall just right of the chimney/crack and the obvious flake on the left end of the wall. Solve the hardest moves off the deck up this superb shield of rock (11c) that gradually gets easier as you move up. Take a breather on the low-angle shelf, then blast up the improbable prow with more excellent climbing (10c) to the anchors.

This route has two outstanding sections of climbing with cool edges, flakes, and the ubiquitous DHN (Devil's Head Nipple). It might deserve four stars except for the moderate middle section.

This is not as good as it looks and not as good as the routes to the right.

Slab Management takes the vertical seam with horizontals just right of the black streak of Black Wave. Like other routes on this wall, the main crux is down low and a bit tricky. After solving this sequence, cruise up the moderate middle section to the upper bulging wall that is not quite as clean (nor quite as good) as the routes on the left.

Another worthy route that should be part of your Black Wave itinerary.

Description

Protection

Routes in Black Wave Wall