Start in the crumbly corner underneath the large roof, just to the south of

Blood Monkey

.  This traverses under the roof and shares an exit with

Blood Monkey

.

Wobbler Pudding

Blood Monkey

Crimp Scampi

Camping with Cows

The Oldtimey Eleven

Dyne and Dash

Crank Du Jour

The name comes from the myriad complaints about the rating from some of the crew, which were met only with the comment, "it's an old timey eleven".

So you might find this a bit of a sandbag, but we are pretty sure there is no move harder than 11c on the line. Just be ready for plenty of difficult climbing and continuity.

This route ascends the overhanging dihedral that separates the left vertical panel from the giant roof.  It is just right of Crank Du Jour. This is the longest route at the crag and although it isn't the most difficult, it may be the best.

This is a pumpy overhanging climb that packs a lot of punch for only being 50 feet tall.  It overhangs gently for about 30 feet of 5.11 climbing until you hit a tricky crux (12a). Then the route gets even steeper as you punch through a 5.11 roof. Good stone and lots of fun!

Try the Crimp Scampi -  a nice appetizer at the Cafe.

This is a very nice line with interesting moves.  It is the only thing that feels like a warmup at this crag, with only a single 11a move on the line.  However, this route has nice continuity and plenty of 5.10 maneuvering before and after the crux.

I usually avoid giving much beta, but I will make an exception here - when the going gets tough, think right hand layaway and get your feet high.  Then start a long reach to a blind hold - when you think you can't go any higher, go a little further.  The left hand hold is good, and the insecure movement out of this position will get your blood pumping.

If you are still hungry for more, you can try a big plate of

Blood Monkey

next.

Crimp Scampi is the 2nd from the rightmost route on the Hangdog Cafe.

Start approximately 30 feet down the hill from the last bolted route at Hangdog Cafe, and climb the obvious crack. There are two parallel cracks and Camping with Cows is the left, clean crack. It climbs harder and better than it looks.

Start up an awkward hand jam roof which leads to a technical, tight, finger crack to a two bolt anchor.

The lower portion of the route has some questionable rock but improves as you climb higher. We did a tremendous amount of cleaning, and it will only improve with traffic.

Dyne and Dash is a nice little route that makes a good 'quick' project.  The route is short and can easily be broken down into a couple boulder problems.  The rock is really good, the protection is excellent, and for the short length the variety and quality of the climbing is very good.  There are 2 good warmups (10b and 11b) to the right and you can easily hang the draws for this one.

Begin just left of '

Crimp Scampi

' near the right side of the wall.  Tediously make your way up to the first bolt (stick clipping is a good idea, there is a fragile flake).  Set up for the first crux and fight to a good rest.  Decipher the upper crux, fighting the urge to step out right to easier climbing.

Both books give Dyne and Dash a single devil/star.  I thought it was better - the only knocks on it being the short length and the temptation of moving out to the right onto '

Crimp Scampi

' at the upper crux.  The topo shows the lower crux as being 11b, which seemed way off.  Do not underestimate this part (as I did my first time on the route) - this part actually gave me more trouble than the upper crux.  The lower crux will probably punish the short, while the upper crux mangles the tall.  It is an equal opportunity sort of route.

Hangdog Cafe really splits into three main features as you look at it.  There is a massive roof in the middle, with mostly vertical walls on either side.  Crank Du Jour is on the right side of the vertical wall to the left of the massive roof. From left to right, it is the second route on the crag.

This route is really all about a burly boulder problem between the first and second bolts.  Puzzle it out and the route is yours - after the steep crux, the route turns to pleasant 5.11 vertical climbing.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Hangdog Cafe