If you like squirming, this route is on the verge of awesome.  There are so many reasons not to like this route, it becomes impossible not to love it.  Lots of decomposing rock, lack of a true summit, and the fact that you will need to lug giant gear up the terrible trail-less approach are all evidence that effort = enjoyment.

But seriously, if you own tons of big gear and you want practice on an easy squeeze chimney, this is a fun route.  Stem, chimney, and squirm your way up till the chimney splits.  The right side continues up a mossy groove.  At the big, rotten, down-facing spike, exit left and up an easy off-width crack to the top.

Gear Beta

Using a #5 and #6 you can protect the first half by back cleaning them from safe stances.  When the crack gets steep and wide, leave the #5 as high as possible then the #6.  If you don't ever want to be above your gear, there is a small runout section before you can get another #6.  This section could be protected with a Valley Giant or blue Big bro.  But it's not necessary since the chimney is so secure.  A #4 protects the exit left.  I used a #5 for the final crack, but if you didn't have another one, a #4, #3, or even a #2 might do the job....

Mega Chimney

Left Hand of Darkness

El Bosco

This a slab climb on good granite rock.  The crux comes about halfway up at a small overhang.  Most of the holds are small edges.  It is a sport climb, but the bolts are further apart than most modern sport climbers would be used to.

This climb starts off a large boulder leaned against the wall.  It ascends near a black water streak.  Most of the holds are small edges and crystals.  The crux is in the lower half of the climb.  Just starting onto the wall seemed about 10a in difficulty.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mega Dome