Bolted double cracks.  Quite easy until the end -- but passing the last bolt is strenuous and somewhat tricky.

Slackjaw

Delicate Mechanism

Bonfire of the Panties

Too Proud To Boast

Life During Wartime

O.R.G.asm

Gross Negligence

Good Friday

Where The Sidewalk Ends

Mini Jones

Unknown A

Too Proud to Boulder

Pumping the Slots

One Armed Bandit

Too Proud to Gary

Gangsta Lean

Chossman of the Desert

Too Proud to Ignore

Mildew Encrusted Shower Stall

Not Proud Enough to Name

To Proud to Boulder

Towel Rack

Bombay on the Rocks

Super Fine Booty

Bushfire

Wannabe Gangsta

Chossman's Dessert

Boulder up to a high first bolt (optional gear here) and then lieback your way up the splitter crack/flake to finish with a seam on a steep slab. Decent crack climbing skills will negate the need for anything but quickdraws, but if unsure take some gear.

Originally done with only a couple of bolts and gear (and rated 10d), this route slowly evolved over time as more bolts were added here and there, and now stands as a fully bolted and totally classic sport route.

2.5 stars.  The sort of obscure pleaure that makes the ORG worth repeat visits.

Up an easy dihedral, passing two bolts, to a roof.  Traverse L under the roof, slabby, awkward and, I thought, cruxy, and pull up onto a ledge at the base of a short, hanging face.  Pull past the face which feels unaccountably exposed and gain a ramp which is followed easily to steeper and harder climbing at the end.

We were able to just barely lower the leader off with a 60 meter rope.  If you try this, be very careful since the belayer may have to climb up the route for a few feet to get the leader to the ground.  The route leans/traverses a fair amount and would be difficult to clean on lower, esp. w/ a 60 M rope.

Once on the arete this climb is in your face to the end. Final moves stepping left and up to the anchor will keep your attention.

A distinctive crux before the first bolt with poor feet, then continuing upwards optionally using the arete or face. 4 bolts

1 bolt after the initial thin crack crux.  Nice varied climbing.

Start in shallow dihedral.

Follow bolts out onto the face.

BETA ALERT!

Use the first two bolts of Wannabe Gangsta to get to the beautiful patina corner. Climb the corner untill it gets too thin to reasonably climb.  When you can no longer get your fingers in the corner navigate left over a small roof. Continue up the flake left of the corner until you reach holds that bring you back into the corner. Use the cool pocket to get established back in the corner and crux number one. Either do a loooong reach or jump like i did to a great hold. Catch your breath now crux number two. Fight the urge to go right onto Gross Negligence. Reach left to a hold at the apex of the scoop that is the top of the corner. Do a hard mantel to get established on the face just left of the blunt arete. A couple more bolts of great crimps gets you to the mussys of G.N.

Gross Negligence makes a great warm up and on the way down you can hang darws/fluff WTSE.

Climb a broken dihedral, then move right on a strenuous undercling.

Pass a short vertical section with two bolts to slab climbing out left, then back right.  There are a couple of ledges that have loose rock on them - caution!

Scramble up the corner with jugs and good feet. Pass the

Too Proud to Ignore

crack on the right and continue up until you hit the roof. Instead of heading on the slab to the left(

Delicate Mechanism

), continue up into a stem just right of the roof. Get your feet up and make a powerful lie back move into a small left hand crimp. Then, jump with your right to the top of the

Too Proud to Ignore

crack. Make the easy mantle and finish at the chains. This route only has 1 or 2 hard move, hence, “

Too Proud to Boulder

.”

A clean and enjoyable gear route.

Mantle past the lone bolt and climb the generous, mostly hand-sized cracks in the corner.  No jackpot moves.  Easy to protect.

This is the large corner just to the right of

Life During Wartime

. The thin section near the beginning is easier than it looks from the ground thanks to perfect finger locks and secure liebacking. Overall this is a very easy climb for the grade. I found it easier than Life During Wartime (10a). However the gear is somewhat tricky to place due to the irregular crack and the rock quality is suspect in a couple areas.

Too Proud to Gary

is a short but powerful variation to

Too Proud to Boast,

5.9. While the top remains the same, the new beginning promises to be technical yet powerful. Start around the arête from

Too Proud to Boast.

Pull off the ground on a chest high slopey crimp with a slight slant (don’t cheat and stand on the rocks near the route). Climb straight up through some powerful moves until you reach the ledge on the arête and this is where you link up with

Too Proud to Boast.

Finish up the easy top to the chains. This line is not bolted yet so you will need to set up a TR on the chains for

Too Proud to Boast.

This route may be more of a 5.11d on top rope but if someone chooses to bolt it, it could easily be soft 5.12.

This long left leaning corner system is very enjoyable.  It starts in an awkward blocky corner crack up to a high first bolt. Pull past this to a stance at the base of the long ramp/corner.  Follow this up and left to the anchors. Could be a little sporty if you're at your limit, but supplemental gear can be easily placed.

Arete and face climbing -- a clean and obvious crux move as you approach the roof.  Somewhat difficult/awkward to clip the anchors.

A short north facing crack in an alcove a little to the left of Gangster Lean.  Starts hands and quickly widens to thin OW for a couple of moves.  Short but fairly pure.

This climbs the wide crack in the corner to the right of "Not Proud Enough to Name".

This climbs an obvious, short, fun crack, up a slab to the left of a big corner ("Mildew Encrusted Shower Stall") and to the right of "Too Proud to Ignore".

Scramble up the corner on big jugs and big feet past

Too Proud to Ignore

on your right. Continue up until you reach the roof. Instead of traversing left into

Delicate Mechanism

, go up and right into a stem. Work your way up until you can make a powerful lie back into a left hand crimp. And then jump with your right hand to the top of the

Too Proud to Ignore

crack. From there make the easy mantle and finish at the chains. Only 1 or 2 hard moves, hence “

Too Proud to Boulder”

The clean arete to the left of

Life During Wartime

. Begin up the face and make a thin traverse over to the arete which will lead to a stance beneath a small roof/overlap. Here you will encounter the crux, a brief but powerful sequence lacking any good footholds.  Above, easier climbing up the face and arete leads to the anchors.

This route shares the same anchor with

Mildew Encrusted Shower Stall

(the wide crack around the corner to the left),

Life During Wartime

(the crack up the face to the right), and

One Armed Bandit

(the dihedral further right).

My vote for best climb in the Dihedrals.  A great change of pace, the wild crux of this route involves working with cracks through traverses and roofs.  Used to be 11b which seemed fair.  Hard to clean on lower.  There is a low 5th class approach pitch.

The crux is around the 3rd bolt. It is very steep and on thin hands. If I remember correctly there is a second crux clipping the 5th bolt (?). It is a fun climb and if you are there you should do it. Alas you may be pumped after doing ORGasm, or pretty much any route in the gorge.

awesome!  v4/5 boulder problem to start (bring an attentive and heavy belayer!) then enter a cool, glassy, dihedral ramp feature...stem and crimp and opose and reeeeach and drop knee up this mini corner until you get a no hands rest and a choice.  Let's just say that the locals do not touch "ORGasm."

originally rated .12c, now rated .13a.  Most people agree with the lower grade...

would be 5 stars if not for the contrived ending.

Climb the vertical face using the dihedral to gain big ledges then  finish up the low angle dihedral. Well protected and fun for its grade.

5 bolt continuation to "Chossman of the Desert". Climb Chossman (recommend clipping the anchors and maybe the next bolt with a long runner to reduce rope drag), then head left to an obtuse dihedral that is harder and steeper than it looks.  Navigate a somewhat baffling crux where the dihedral blanks out, making a looong move right to a slot.  Stiff for a Gorge .12a.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dihedrals