Semi wandering crack. Watch out for choss! Belayer should really wear a helmet

Darwin Awards

R.F. Burnout

Bud's Route

Nice n' Tight

Anal Sex

The Gash

AKA Inset Pillar

Unknown Sandy Crack

Flicking the Bean

Jutting Flake

Trouser Snake

[Redacted]

Sababa

Hot Dogs

Unknown Chossy Calcite Corner

Deep Throat

Dusty Pussy

This route is identified by and splitter hands to tips crack on the main wall with a pillar to the left that creates an offwidth.  The splitter gradually gets smaller as the offwidth gets wider.

A nice, clean tight-knee OW in a shallow right-facing dihedral. Starts butterflies, mainly tight hand-fist stacks. Ends on large ledge.

Climb the left of two splitter crack until it is possible to switch to the right crack.  Follow this for a couple body lengths and then move back left to the anchor.  It is also possible to just climb the left crack at about 5.11.

sandy with a blocky start, go fingers to hands

A corner crack just right of an ow crack. Starts 3’s, 4’s for a little while, back to 3’s then a 2.

A sustained steep thin hands to big hands corner with an OW flared squeeze at the top protected with a bolt

Very aesthetic route

Start on chossy bouldery moves into a left facing corner. Good jams until the crack widens to fist and then OW. Either layback it 7-8 ft until you can get a good foot on the arête and good handjams again, or OW it. Laybacking it would probably be a bit scary on lead, and might make a ledge fall possible. Go up until you can chimney it, miraculously enough. Rest and think out the rest

OWing it probably makes it more 5.11 than 5.11-

Anchors need chains

Not sure this route gets any traffic, although it's a great moderate that should clean up nicely. Tossed down a few death blocks, but there is still loose stuff at the top. Fun jamming all the way up.

About 200 yds left of Bud's, start up some large blocks, angle right. You will be below a dihedral & a crack. Take the overlapping crack on the face, not the choss-filled dihedral. About 50 feet up it is possible to step left if you are tall, into a #4 crack, choose your own adventure, or stay right for a slightly more sustained outing. The 2 cracks converge a bit higher & traverse left on a hand traverse reminiscent of Way Rambo. Continue up the arcing crack to the anchors. 35m

boulder up a jutting flake (far to the right of hot dogs) to a left-facing corner

Sandy and loose face climbing lead to a steep finish.  A real creek classic!

This route climbs a right facing corner that starts as fingers and widens to hands.  Watch out for loose rock at the horizontal ledge just before the anchor.

Sababa is a break off extension of Flicking The Bean. Climb the double hand cracks of that route, then set some small gear in a thin crack where FTB begins its leftward traverse. Make a face traverse on obvious positive crimps to gain the crack out right. Climb hands that drops down before a bulging roof, then climb sustain tight hand and ring locks to the anchor.

A mega pitch that protects well and is worth the effort.

Be warned, the rock quality on this route is poor when compared to other splitters at IC. Start by carefully mantling onto a choss block covered in choss. Enter a detached block double crack system climbing hands or thin hands or both. Place some cams in hollow sounding rock. Encounter some cupped hands calcite plagued by hollow rock on the left and right side of this crack. This is where you start cursing the guidebook for saying "Optional 4". While there were many places that other sized cams looked good, it was really only the fist+ size cracks that didn't have hollow rock on either side with the exception of a few spots. Make some more moves and then enter a fists/ow crack that brings you up under the roof. Curse the guide book again as you place a thin hands sized cam behind this #5 sized crack. Pull some amazing OW roof moves and wonder how this thing is only 5.10. At this point I broke a foothold off and it landed right on my belayers shoulder, luckily it was only around the size of a clementine, but it still did enough damage to cut our trip short. This route could use some cleaning and climbers should tread lightly. I would not climb this again and I would not recommend it to anyone who likes their belayer. The roof on this route would make it worth doing if not for the choss. One star.

I felt it was hateful. Good size to get good at though

Start in a big left facing corner formed by the wall and a large detached pillar. Head up the crack until you get below a fixed pin. Getting into the chimney here is the crux. I thought it was pretty damn hard, but I also suck at OWing. Once you are "comfortably" into the chimney work your way up and protect with a finger crack in the back. Progress upwards to the top of the pillar.

Belayer might want to belay a little way from the base. Watch out for loose rock

Climb the glorious 1-3's in a lichen corner. The angle eases and then climb up and over a flake. Enter a flare with 3-4's at the back. Work your way up into the Dusty Pussy and then re-emerge by working your way on 3's over the roof to a ledge and the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Gash