Climb easily up a low angled face of the leaning flake to the overhanging face with 3 bolts. Crank through crimps to really good holds then do it again. Cruise to the anchors. Stout little 10a but well worth doing. You'll be glad you did it.

Sunshine Divine

Panning for Gold

Burly Bulges

Too big to finger

Hairless Wonder

First ascents seem like panning for gold.  Sometimes you can strike it rich, but most of the time you just end up with a handful of dirt. 

  Climb the left angling crack 15 feet to a sloping.  Traverse left, then climb up into the right angling layback crack/arete thingie.  Climb this feature 20 feet to a ledge.  Now follow the 2-3" crack up and right to the top.

Climb the crack through 3 bulges, the last feeling the hardest to me. 

  The split rating is due to height.  If you're tall enough to reach out right from the 1st flared handjam this will feel easier.  If not, you have to use another flared jam above the 1st which is not quite as good.

Lie back or jam the short and sweet fist/off width crack.

Start on the large flake and follow it until it peters out.  Move through the strenuous but short face section then continue up the crack to the top.  Make an easy traverse out left to use the anchors on top of Sunshine Divine.

Mix of crack and face climbing on south and east facing sandstone.

 This the area West of the Gravity Slab area.  All of the routes here exist between the dog walk approach and the standard downclimb approach. Receives mixed sun and shade throughout the day.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hippie Wall