Rain Dog

Split Decision

Me Gusta

Hidden Treasures

Lefty Crack

Split Decision-Direct

Lithuanian Chimney

Velvet Green

Discovering Sin

The Dog Ran Away

Lovely Arete

Lost Innocence

Fine Nine

Fun and safe little 5.7 crack that is good for the new trad leader. Very safe stances, although the gear can be a little tricky. From lovely arete, go around to the left and ascend the obvious left-leaning crack at about a 45 degree angle. It's jug hauling near a crack feature; no jamming required.

Follow the line of 3 bolts just the left of Fine Nine. The route goes straight up the slab with the help from committing smearing, quartz pebbles, and faint pockets.

This route has probably been climbed before us, but we found it on a wet day when I had intended to project Hidden Treasure and Velvet Green. After falling several times on Hidden due to the wet condition, I dropped a TR on the other side of the rock up a nice dry gully in the sun. It ended up being the most fun little 5.8 I have done at Jackson, and I highly recommend it. I set up the TR anchor with natural protection after leading up Hidden Treasure. Good if you have less experienced climbers in your party and you want to work on any of the hard routes on Lovely Tower. 

**I'm adding this route because, in my opinion, it deserves consideration for bolting. I'm not a local, but I may consider looking into it.***

One of the cleanest lines around. Great "first" 12 interesting moves protected well where needed.

To clarify, Split Decision was originally done using the left-most features of Fine Nine, traversing left into the first bolt, and continuing straight up the bolt line. The first ascensionist proposed starting left of the bolts would be a better line, avoiding all Fine Nine holds and adding a difficult slab boulder to the beginning of the route. Perhaps consider this if you're some kind of purist, or if you have done the original line and would like an added challenge. 

A great pockety line with the crux below the last bolt...too bad it's so short.

Start a few feet to the right of the first bolt. Climb up using decent pockets until you reach a blank section. Rest up, grab the jug, throw big and try to finish.

A jug haul on the corner just left of Lefty Crack. Could maybe go on gear but would be a bit spicy perhaps. We set up a trad anchor for top-roping in the horizontal crack used for an anchor on Lefty Crack.  Found on a very wet day when the shaded "hard" routes on Lovely weren't good for projecting. The sunny side of the boulder was dry. So named because the party's dog took off and the only person on the ground not belaying couldn't speak English. Poor communication and a lot of charades ensued.

Where Lovely Tower and the Wave Wall form the Lovely Hallway, this is the obvious arete. A bouldery start to the first bolt leads to the meat. Fun stuff.

Climb up a surprisingly engaging slab with committing crux moves up higher that can be baffling for some at first.

Lovely Tower is a freestanding boulder as tall as Wave Wall, right next door. Of the six routes it holds, five are are bolted and four are must-dos, particularly the Lovely Arete (5.11a). If you climb in the 11-to-12 range, this is the block for you.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in D. Lovely Tower