Great stemming in the middle and a stout finish.

Hobo Bolter

Murray Freestone

Afterburner

Tiger Teeth

Tiger Paw

Scratching Post

Crystal Ladder

Widowmaker

Forever in Bluejeans

Kundalini Express

Mandatory Doug Testing

Countdown To Ecstasy

Oreos & Promises

Treeline

Amandatory Bolt Testing

School Of Hard Rocks

Kiddie Treats

Thin start to bulge then groove which you stay a bit left of.  Same anchors as for Tiger Paw which is the first route right of the big pine tree.  David's 1st FA, ground up, drilling on lead.

This is an interesting climb.  I feel like this could be lumped into the "warm-up for The Orifice" category.  I found it a bit harder than Mandatory Doug Testing.  The climbing is also a little less straight forward which makes for more interesting climbing.

A 20 foot boulder problem, but not a bad boulder problem.

Face climbing to large quartz crystals and knobs.

Climb face to large flake/crack. Shares chains with School of Hard Rocks, which is to the next line to the right.

Thin face climbing on knobs and crystals similar to routes in Needles of South Dakota.

Steep start that traverses left then up to a steep headwall.  The trick is getting to the quartz crystals that lead to lower angle rock.

Very cool arete climbing on knobs and edges.  Classic arete climbing using both sides of the arete make it worth doing despite the steep ground at the base.

Very sporty climbing up the slightly overhanging face leads to a deep cleft and rest before finishing out the last bit of pebble pinching to the chains.

Shares start with Mandatory Drug Testing then goes left to the obvious seam. Probably the best climb on the wall.

Slightly overhanging with bigger holds.  A good warm up for the better climbs at the crag.  Climb ends in a deep crack.

Holding nothing back, Countdown To Ecstasy starts with powerful edging and crimping.  This sequence demands technique and forces interesting movement.  A sinker pocket and deep undercling provide a respite at the third bolt.  Surmount two bulges separated by seemingly blank face.  Finish by following a near horizontal crack to the anchor. 

Countdown To Ecstasy has long been a personal mystery.  The route ascends interesting features but sees little traffic in comparison to its neighbors.  A rumor swirled that the line was plagued by poor rock.  My intrigue and completest tendencies finally got the better of me. 

  The rock quality is good but not great.  The bottom shows signs of features lost, the upper headwall is a bit grainy, and the final horizontal crack has an easily avoidable hold that flexes.  Clipping the second bolt, while likely safe, held my attention as the easiest clipping stance comes after the sequence in near groundfall territory.  With those caveats the movement and features on this line make it worth exploring.

Face climbing on crystals to bigger holds above.

Thin technical face climbing to a bulge finishing on a airy buttress.

WARNING:110 feet long face climb with a slab start and two bulges up high.  fun climbing with a long very easy run out in the middle.  You can get off with a 60M rope if you stop lowering when the climber reaches the ledge just below the first bolt.  Be careful not to drop your partner!

Getting up the face to the crack will get your attention.  This route needs to get bolted and it will when time and funds permit.

This is a great summer area.  Not only is it nice and cool because its at the top, but it is also in the shade for a good portion of the day.  You are unlikely to see many other people here, and if you do it is likely they are hiking out to the Fortress and not stopping to climb the few routes that are here.  If you've not climbed up this high on Mt. Lemmon you will be surprised to see that the rock is different.  It is very much like the rock in Tuolomne Meadows in YNP.      You can toprope most of these climbs by accessign the top of the cliff.      This area is affected by the Pergrine Falcon closure that applies to the other summit crags.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Murray Wall