'CYMBALINE' (5.7 PG13)

Pitch 1 (5.7):

Climb the knobs until they peter out to gain the first bolt. Continue up and then left, passing 3 more bolts (5.7) before gaining a "U" shaped flake incut. Good gear here (Yellow and Green aliens). Head up and left to the 5th and final bolt, making a frictiony move from a small black knob. Head back right and up to the 2-bolt ring anchor (110').

Pitch 2 (5.7):

Head up a left facing flake to its end. Head up toward a large black knob to the first bolt. Pass the knob to a series of broken ledges. Once at the ledges, follow them up and right to a left facing flake. Climb past the flake and up to the 2-bolt ring anchor. (105').

Pitch 3 (5.7/5.8):

From the anchors, head up and slightly right for 20' to the roof above. Good pro (#1 Camelot) under the roof. Then climb left under the roof 10' before reaching a bolt on an overlap. Be sure to sling the bolt to minimize rope drag before heading past the overlap. Make a delicate move (5.7+) over the roof then friction out right and up to reach the 2nd bolt. A bit runout from the 1st bolt. Continue up and back slightly left to the last bolt. Head up and left to a 2-bolt ring anchor (90'). One has the option of rapping the route from here or continue on to join up with 'Skin Skeers' (coming in from the right, marked by a bolt 60' above).

Pitch 4, optional (5.5/5.6 R/X):

From the anchors, head up slightly left (5.6) to reach subtle dishes and nice incut edges. Follow these features (5.4) to the lone bolt above (60'). Pass the bolt and head to the big roof above. Gear anchor here. Easy 4th/5th class to the far left and over block overlaps to reach 3rd class terrain. Walk off to the west and to the cleft between Penstemon and Dusy.

Cymbaline

Paradisio

Little Lambs Eat Ivy

Saint of Circumstances

Tongue In Cheek

It's A Doozy (The Abduction From the Seraglio)

Start up easy right facing oblique dihedral about 30', step right to 1st bolt. Continue up past 3 bolts to small left facing crack/corner. Can protect here. Move up again on steep face past 2 more bolts. More pro available as another left facing system arches right to 2 bolt belay.

Great route especially for its grade on super rock.

4th class up lower angle slabs and crack/grooves to a shallow ledge (no fixed belay anchor but a couple of small/medium cams do the trick).

Climb up a sticky slab pitch passing 6 spread out bolts.  Bit of a run to the first bolt on lower angle rock.  Fixed belay anchor.

Last pitch climbs one of three options.  Take either a crack out left, a thin crack on the right, or the unprotected slab straight up from the belay.  Past the crack options, one bolt leads to the fixed belay anchor.).

Take a pair of ropes for the rappel off.

"The first pitch begins by mantling a large black knob, ascends a bolted face and ends up on a large ledge. The second passes four bolts to a two bolt belay. Pitch three is run out 5.6 to a belay under a roof. Traverse left to the crux 5.8 surmounting the roof"

'TONGUE IN CHEEK' (5.9)

Pitch 1 (5.8):

Head up the center of the "tongue" on easy 5th class for 40' before reaching a roof-like overlap with a large knob at its lip. Clip the 1st bolt just next to the knob. Mantle the knob and climb up left then back right to reach the 2nd bolt. From here, climb a blunt riser to reach the 3rd and final bolt. Move up and right to a thin incut flake and eventually the 2-bolt ring anchor (115').

Pitch 2 (5.9):

From the anchor, move right then up to the 1st bolt. Pass the bolt (5.9) and reach a semi-grass filled crack. Climb the crack for a short ways (small wires and cams) then out left onto the slab. Clip the 2nd bolt and head up 10' (5.9) then back right into the crack. The crack is somewhat dirty but will take hand sized cams from here on. Continue up the crack as the climbing gets easier. Head up to the right edge of a large blocky corner. Locate 2-ring anchors (105'). Rap the route OR head up and right to the pinched overlap above (100'). Easy 5th with a light duty move of 5.7 before exiting off right and up on 4th class. Walk off right.

Follow a vertical dike through a corner system to a 2-bolt belay. This route is technical and superb.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dusy Dome