Face climb using a diagonal seam to gain the deep, flaring, and sustained hand crack.  It is possible to climb as an OW if you stay toward the outside of the crack.

To descend, scramble to climber's left (north) into the notch where Gunks West and Lumping Fat Jennie end.  There is usually a rappel station setup here from a large slung boulder. Alternatively you can scramble further left to reach the bolted rap anchors of leaping leaner.

Hhecht

Grain Dance

Edam vs Gouda

Jump Back Loretta

Edom vs Moab

Slip and Slide

Gunks West

Leaping Leaner

Jumping Jehosephat

Lumping Fat Jennie

Snnfchtt

Wilderness of Edom

Clip the bolt from the boulder and make a strenuous move to gain the crack.  Follow the crack up and up.  I thought it was sandbagged for a 5.10b.

Follow the directions to reach Locomotion Rock and settle into the niche on its west side.  At the far north end of the rock there are two offset hand cracks that go from near the ground, up and left to the left hand side of the top of the rock.  Grain Dance is a TR problem between Jumping Jehosephat to the left, and Leaping Leana to the right.

Follow a rounded and slightly offset crack/seam up and left to a blank section in the face.  Friction up through the crux to reach a second system, just up and right of the first.  The movement is fun and will likely increase your trust in J-tree friction.

However, if you go by the 5.10b rating, it may leave you depressed, discouraged, and sandbagged.  I felt that the route should have been rated 5.10d, as it was harder than about a dozen 5.10c's that I've lead at J-tree.

Start about eight feet left of Edom vs Moab, behind a scrub oak. Make difficult face moves to a horizontal crack. Go up and left to a stance. Climb a short corner to face moves and the top.

This route climbs an obvious crack system about 60 feet to the left of Jumping Jehosaphat. Start just right of a scrub oak and left of the base of a chasm. Climb a vertical crack past a yucca to a chimney. Go up and left in a left-leaning crack to the top.

This is a hard toprope problem that climbs the face to a short summit crack just right of Leaping Leaner.

Follow the directions to reach the Locomotion Rock and settle into the niche on its West side. At the far north end of the rock there are two offset hand cracks that go from near the ground, up and left to the left hand side of the top of the rock. Grain Dance is a TR problem between Jumping Jehosephat to the left, and Leaping Leana, to the right.

Move up to reach the main crack. There are a few ways to accomplish this, and the further right you start, the harder it seems. If approaching the main crack from straight up or from the right, this might have some ankle-twisting potential at 5.8+. Approach from slightly left, and keep the grade easier. The beginning of this route, in my frank opinion, made it harder than Jumping Jehosephat. Climb up to reach said crack, then follow really great jams and locks to the top of the rock. Once you are in the main crack the protection is stellar, but the offset leans just far enough over to make it a little hard to get in for some people.

Follow the direction to reach the Locomotion Rock and settle into the niche on its West side. At the far north end of the rock there are two offset hand cracks that go from near the ground, up and left to the left hand side of the top of the rock. Jumping Jehosephat is the left-most of the two. Lock and jam up to the top of the route. The protection is mostly straight forward and good. The crack shallows and flares near the top of the route making most people run out that portion. Retreat from the top via fixed anchors above Leaping Leaner, big jugs allow for an easy mantle over to the belay.

15ft from the deck you hit a really flaring crack with awkard jams and some poor foot placements. Protection is semi difficult but can be solid placements can be found. After you move through that section the climbing substantially eases up.

Right crack of two that make up the Prominent crack to the right of Leaping Leaner.

Start directly to the left of a large boulder in which the 10b Gunks West starts on. (good luck on that one)

The Crux is definitely the moves right off the deck. After about 9 ft of climbing you enter into a crack with just bomb-tastic hand jams.

Start just right of Edom vs Moab below a vertical crack. Step off a boulder into a scoop then climb the widening crack to a chimney. Go up the chimney a short ways, then break out right in an obvious hand crack.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Locomotion Rock