This is the roof above and right of the Magnum Block. However you climb into it, start on a foot-wide sloper on the lip, move up and right past nice holds to a huge ledge on which you finish. Great moves, with a heel hook to add full value to the beginner highballer.

Upper Magnum-Right

Make My Day

Two Mules for Sister Sarah

Bronco Billy

Magnum Force

Psuedo Magnum

Upper Magnum

The Gauntlet

Start Bronco Billy at the recessed finger jugs under the east face of the rock. Pop up the bottom until you are able to reach a left hand onto the flat hold located at the bottom of the western arete on the lip (just about every line uses this hold). NOW, move the right hand over the left onto the western arete above, and wrangle the arete up its length to easier ground. Fun, and pretty scary too!

This is another area classic, and the easiest way up Magnum Block. Start on the same triangular hold as

Magnum Force

, but move right hand to a hold underneath the eastern arete. Pop a left heel-hook on the starting hold, then move your left hand to a hold along the lip underneath the western arete. Right hand to a horizontal edge up between the aretes, and left hand up to a hold along the western arete. Grunt your way to the end of the aretes, and traverse off to the left using holds on the underside of the roof.

Two Mules starts on the east side of the block on the same holds as

Bronco Billy

. Reach up from the starting holds under the east face with the right hand to the Make My Day hold underneath the eastern arete. Fire up with the left hand to the eastern arete and pinch...hard...move the feet, and bring the right hand up on the arete above, and try to make the left foot good to allow a lieback to the top.

An area classic that I am surprised no one has added yet. Start on the triangular jug underneath the rock, and move right hand to the lip of the overhang onto the rightmost of some very thin crimps. Next, bring your left hand up to the left crimp also located along the same strata as the right. Figure out the feet, then set up and pop the right hand up and right to a small edge maybe 2' up from the lip. This hold is good for maybe half a pad for two fingers. More creative footwork follows, then your left hand goes up to a nice four-finger jug another two or so feet up and left of your right hand. Finish by traversing off to the left.

Start Psuedo Magnum from the same triangular hold as

Magnum Force

. Make a long reach with the right hand to a flat edge along the lip where the western arete starts. Move the left hand up to the mid-face "pop-to" hold on

Magnum Force

. Figure out the feet, then fire up along the western arete with the right hand to a good hold to finish. This one has some high quality movement, without the pain of its neighbor.

Bring the Cojones! This line ascends the shallow left facing corner that begins at the top of the Magnum Block above the aretes. Figure out which micro finger slot to plug first, and don't fall! The triangular hold at the end of the corner is pretty decent, but save some gas...This one is next to impossible to reverse the moves on.

The Gauntlet is a left to right traverse across the Magnum Block that finishes with a nice roof that looms above the "V" shaped gap next door to the east. Start at some very small crimps at the west end of the south face, traverse past the triangular bucket hold, out to the make my day hold, and down to a recessed flat edge at the bottom of the east face. Reach up and establish both hands on a two-digit ledge 18" up the east face, and squat onto the bottom foot hold. Mantle high enough to place a right palm on the roof above, step up a left foot, and finish with the roof to the right. A block used to sit under the east face, but it was removed by an unknown party. Thank You, as it presented major ankle damage issues....

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Magnum Block