Refer to Umpqua Guide topo U, pp. 126. P1: climb short head wall to belay anchors on shelf above bush (about 25 feet). P2: climb up and right traversing onto the wall right of the caves on the Cave Route (5.8). Follow bolts up the wall to summit (5.7). This route traverses around the north side of Treasure Island and requires brushing at the beginning of each season. Rappel from chains down the Cave Route (100 feet).

Midas

Wall Street

Pot of Gold

The Cave Route

The cave route begins at the downhill side of the rock. Follow the bolt line to the ledge and bolted belay about 20 feet up. From this belay you can climb to the left side arete route (Pot of Gold .10d), right (Midas .8), or continue straight up (Cave Route). Beginning the climbs at this belay will help reduce rope drag later on. Rappelling back down to this ledge and then to the ground in 2 separate raps will help avoid rope entanglement in the bushes. P1: climb to the lower left of the fist cave (5.7) and follow bolts out onto the left slab and up (5.10a slab friction) into a large cave above (5.9). Once inside the cave set up a belay from chains or continue the remaining 25 feet to the summit. The cave is a great place to hangout and take in the view of the valley below, but so is the top. P2: follow bolts out the left side of the cave (5.8) and up to the summit (5.7). Rappel: 100 ft. from chains. Note: you are likely to encounter some poison oak on the bottom portion of this route.

Begins left side of uphill saddle (looking towards Treasure Island from uphill side). scramble up blocks to saddle ridge and up to headwall near summit (5.0, one bolt), climb headwall to top with a single 5.7 crux move. Expect moss. Rappel off chains down the Cave Route (100 feet).

Refer to Umpqua Guide topo U, pp. 126. P1: climb first short pitch about about 25 ft to belay anchors just above bushes (5.6). This sets you up to climb Midas (right, 5.8), The Cave Route (straight up, 5.9+), or Pot of Gold (left, (5.10c/d). P2: follow bolts traversing left to arete ridge line and up to a ledge at headwall (5.9). Climb headwall with one bolt protecting crux move up headwall and the next close but just out of sight (5.10d). Once over headwall follow bolts back to the arete and to the top (5.7). Rappel from chains down the Cave Route to the ground (100 ft). If the bush near the bottom has not been recently trimmed back plan on having your rope get stuck, or make two rappels the first to the anchors above the bush.

Treasure Island is a Tyee Sandstone pinnacle approximately 100 feet in height.There are currently 4 established routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.10d.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Treasure Island