This climb is more dumb than fun, but that's because it chewed me up and spit me out. Belay at either of the sloping ledge systems on the ramp and avoid the initial bushels via some slab climbing on the right. Once you get established below the roof on the far right, execute bizzare campusing jams of all sorts under the roof, clipping two solid pins to protect the final spread eagle move to the crimps and final jug that allows passage to the anchor. Its short but it packs a punch.

Good gear but hard to place due to lack of things to stand on.

Felt like one of those hard campus bouldering problems the kids are into these days.

Dumb Fun

Razor Flake

Spotted Fever

Gen Z

Barking Up the Wrong Spider

Barking Spiders

Peter's Flight School

Inertia Creeps

TexasFlake

Boomer

Mystery Moon

Bizarro Duck

Wall of Illusion

Hi!  I'm the best guide EVAR!

Kings of Cribbage

Poopy Hunch

Mezzanine

This is the approach pitch to

Peter's Flight School, Barking Spiders

, etc.  More of an approach than a climb, this slab is quite clean and a good quickie for the kiddies.  I'm guessing it's 5.4, but does anyone really know the difference between 5.0-5.4? I will say I was glad to not have the approach shoes on for this though.

P1. A Right leaning shallow dihedral which proves to be the crux. head up too tree belay

P2. Walk over too "pimple pinnacle" and adventure up using bolts pins and chickenheads for pro.

Climb easy blocks and cracks for 30' with good gear until you reach the bolted arete. Move through the blocky flake, clipping bolts, crimping sharp, ever shrinking edges. Mantle and climb your way through the very unique and fun pixel section, which requires sorting through the hundreds of small green patina 'pixels' to find the ones that fit you.

Move up and right towards another flake, catch your breath on a good edge then pull around to the right of the arete, using a cool sloper undercling and eventually pulling around to a stance on a cool double chickenhead. Pull into the final 25' runnel using the unique sloper rail, pinching and/or sloping all the way to the anchor.

Very cool, unique and fun climbing that is surprisingly sustained. Keeping the lower flakes makes this an edging crux instead of pure slab. Keeping those flakes also required Gen Z infrastructure. It holds 200# guys but please tread lightly as you pull through the first 2 bolts.

The name is a clue as to the route's location. And before you get your butt floss in a wad, read the comments below.

This climbs what we sincerely thought was a new line and at least 10-15 feet left of the original Barking Spiders. It climbs the obvious slab below Razor Flake but trends left after bolt 5.

You can either climb this route in it's entirety OR after clipping bolt 5, head right and up Razor Flake--all in 1 pitch (2 stars imo).

At the base of the Keel, underneath Dumb Fun, (The obvious roof) is a ramp/ slab that you can climb to approach Peter's Flight School.  It is probably 5.4 or so in diifficulty and 100 feet high, so be careful or rope up.  Climb this ramp to a pine tree with slings.  Peter's Flight School starts by climbing up a dihedral on the right end of the wall after the slab ends.  Look for a bolt.  It works past a bush (joy), and up a nice groove with less and less protection.  It then steps left across the rice-y slab and with great fall potential.  Finally the old 1/4" bolt is reached.  Clip it from the slab, and make your 5.11a move with deck potential on the slab.  This IS a fun move, just scary for the leader.  Continue up the steep face, clip a bolt unseen from below, the halfway extracted old knifeblade, make one more difficult move and then place micro's  above the plant.  Angle right to the roof, place your cams, and make another exciting series of moves left using the lip of the roof and/or the thin crack at the base.  Look left and you will see the angle piton; however, we felt better with the cams (runnered) at the roof.  Continue left, stepping across the slab to the anchors, now with new chains.  The second pitch, continues left to a bolt, and then up and to the left of the end of the roof, past a pin and up an easier, although runout slab.  We did not finish due to light's impending end, and decided to bail from the anchors.

The climb would not be bad if it (altogether now) just cleaned up.  The 5.11a move was interesting, and the roof sequence was a blast.  Unfortunately the gear sucked and the fixed gear was scary.  The rock was rice-y, loose, hollow, and just plain scary throughout most of the route.  The approach needless to say was annoying.  A 70-meter rope will get you off the anchors to the slung pine tree, and barely...barely get you from the pine tree to the base of the slabs.

Approach as if going to the Coffin. Send Hi I'm the best guide EVAR! all the way to the first anchors looker's left at the high ledge. Drop your pack and rack up here. Look straight up to the steep Texas-shaped flake. Initially clip Tony's first bolt about 40 ft off the belay (5.4ish) or bring some small to medium gear for the slab if you like. Shortly after Tony's bolt you will see a bolt straight up the steeper slab that is close. Climb the slab above the bolt to a .5-.75 placement protecting a mantelish move (5.8) up still steeper rock. Continue towards the flake on easier ground to a fixed off brand knifeblade.  Do a difficult crimp and edges move to another bolt directly below the flake. Breathe, relax, and get ready for the crux pump. You can place a yellow TCU in the bottom of the flake, but I wouldn't recommend it. Climb the flake clipping one bolt about half way up. The flake is THIN! Please don't place gear in the flake as it will break, and the route will be lost. It flexes a bit if you pull hard on the east edge.  Although it doesn't look it from below this section is overhung and pumpy. At the top of the flake a horn takes a .75 and a 1.0 Camalot pretty well. The crux (or one of them) is transitioning to the slab above.  Watch for the newly trimmed mountain mahogany as it may have some pointy parts left. Two bolts on the slab bring you to a bit runout finish.  Hanging belay from the top or you can lower to an intermediate stance (no bolts) for more comfort. I'm not sure you can do this route on a 60m without starting higher up on the easy slab. Bring lots of runners as it meanders a bit and the rope drag can be ridiculous.

Special Thanks to Austin Fought and Kevin Langlois for late nights with a drill by headlamp and long cold belays, I couldn't have got it done without you!

Climbs a fun little finger and hand crack, 3 bolts of face climbing on thin edges to jugs, a finger crack to a tree, then edgy face and crack climbing to finish at the belay tree down down below the Sail.

We cleaned a ton of loose rock throughout that dihedral in spring 2019, then it got too hot so we bailed on it. When we went back in October 2019 to finish equipping it we found AJ's bolts. We connected and this is the result.

A bit of a rambly line albeit on a bit of a rambly buttress. The details of this route seem to have been lost to history so I'll describe how we did it; similar but not exactly to how the Granite Guide describes it.

P1 90' climbs the obvious arch below Texas Flake. Make your way around a bush via the slab at left to enter the arch on its right side. Follow the arch, trending left, with just enough small gear to keep it reasonable. Continue around the left side and up the following corner to a 2-bolt belay.

P2 180' A long, varied pitch with the crux right at the end. Choose your own adventure up 40' of easy terrain to the obvious slab with 2 bolts. You're aiming for the arching right-facing dihedral far above and there are a few ways of getting there. The Granite Guide draws two separate topo lines, one going directly up a 5.7 slab using bolts and the other heading up the right side and traversing left via a crack. I climbed the latter, and there's no gear in that crack, so...yeah, don't go that way.  In either case you end up below some short flaring cracks with decent gear, and finally into the dihedral proper. The line becomes more obvious here -- follow the right-leaning crack in the dihedral until it deposits you in a mess of scrub oak at the top, which happens to be the leftmost edge of the base of the Sail. The crux is where the ramp steepens and holds get worse, and incidentally, the gear gets to be rather marginal and strenuous to place. This is not the line for a budding 5.9 trad leader.  Belay at a small tree in a tangle of scrub oak. Rope drag is severe -- bust out those double ropes collecting dust in your garage to practice your double-rope technique!

Descent: There is a 2-bolt anchor below the scrub oak. The lower hanger had a rap ring, and a rather sun-bleached sling connected the higher bolt to the same rap ring.  Bring up some quicklinks / chains to connect them if you go up there. From here, the Granite guide suggests rapping way to skier's left on the other side of Texas Flake, but we ended up rapping skier's right to the base of the 5.10R Man Overboard route which sports a nice 2-bolt anchor. From there you can rap to the base of p2, and then back down to the starting belay ledge.

Or, just climb some of the choice cracks at the Sail and walk off! Hey, you're already there.

A mirror of Disco Duck in that it trends up and left and has similar gear placements.

This protects well but don't pass gear placements in the beginning stembox because you'll have to do a move over your gear. It's fairly clear to scope it out from the ground.

The whole thing trends up and left but the highlight of the route is using a huge jug rail to move to the left around the same time the crack takes a harder left.

Slab roof mid-height with dirty no gear seams above an below. There is a pin in the roof, the bolt is shit.  The rock is hammered, would have to be really bored to try and clean this up. finishes on the same anchors as " Mezzazine"

Start up the slab right of Dumb Fun.

Pull round the roof on the right then step left into a groove/ramp. Head up this to a headwall where some nice pulling leads to the anchor.

A good warm up on the way to the Coffin.

"That's one way to spend a afternoon...but thank god we have many more"

Start on the RF corner of Dumb Fun and continue right under the big roof into Inertia Creeps.  Get your hunch on!

Start up crack/slab to first bolt.

Climb straight up on a steepish face,then pull on to and finish up the tricky arete.

70m rope is helpfull, a 60m will leave an easy 10ft downclimb.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Keel