Climb the face to reach a large slanting ledge about 3/4 way up.  From the ledge, continue up and trend slightly right to reach the shuts.  This route has really fun face moves and can be a little dirty.  Pretty solid for 10b.  Stays shaded until noon or so.

Little Wing

Golden Escalator

Shear Strength

Bubbacide

Axis Bold as Bubba

Sheer Energy

Mind's Eye

Bedtime for Bubba

The Raptilian

Hydroman

Diamond Life

The Cutting Edge

Climb the face to reach the large ledge and corner.  Continue staight up to the top.  The business is the section of face below the ledge.  If you did Little Wing, this is not too much more difficult given the rating.  Stays shaded until noon or so.

Golden Escalator is a 65' bolted route with positive, fingery holds and great movement. The long run to the first bolt is easier, after which the face becomes gently overhanging.

The rock at the start is somewhat friable.  Climb up and to the right to access the dihedral.  Stem up the corner to the top.  Some of the best gear on the route steals the best finger locks.  Fairly sustained for a short climb.

Sporty arete with some thin-face crux moves pulling over a small bulge. Start at the arete under a roof. Clip a bolt, make awkward moves escaping the roof out left. Tech your way up the arete, passing another bolt, until you can move around to the right, clipping a third bolt and gaining an ok rest stance. From this point on, the route is in your face.

Climb the left facing corner to large ledge under roof.  There are many rests due to good ledges for feet.  A little dirty, but fun.  This route stays shaded until around noon or 1PM.

Climb up an overhanging face passing 2 bolts and horizontals with great holds.  Pull up on to a low angle stance to reach a crack in a short dihedral.  Climb the crack to the end and pull a small overhang(crux).  Head slightly right and then straight up to reach the shuts at the top of the cliff.  This route is excellent the entire way.  Feels somewhat like a trad route.

If you have done the other classics and are bored try this pile. Crumbly rock leads to a roof. Rest up and enter the upper face with whatever feet you can find. The face is a fun boulder problem consisting of around 5 or 6 moves on pockets, side pulls, and small crimps.

Fun stemming on good holds with a short lieback crux.  A tiny bit dirty.  Well worth racking up for if you brought your gear down.

This is a route that would greatly improve by more traffic. Find your way on the ledge and to the first bolt, then use good holds to surf up to a big jug. Unlock the sequence that takes you to the worse than it looks from the ground rail at the 3rd bolt. Push into the roof and over on great holds that are harder to use than expected. Tic-tac up the face to the final bolt that's just out of reach and a bit too far from the last to sufferingly look for good holds to get to the anchors. Going straight up and right from the last bolt is a little harder than using the arete and going left.

Start tic tac'ing up the wall on small crimps. Grab some pockets leaving the rest and get set up for the crux. The crux revolves around a shallow pocket, poor sloper crimp, and a tension leg move. Finish the route up easier climbing to the anchors.

Good technical, engaging climbing up bullet rock. Bring the footwork and the lock off strength, solid at the grade. This a killer route, well worth doing. Props if you flash it.

Start in the obvious crack, ride the rail under the roof out right, and follow the bolt line to the right up the arete. Don't blow the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 10. Central Bubba