This is an excellent highball that is probably among the best moderates in Colorado. It is very reminiscent of The Buttermilks.

Climb perfect patina edges to a decent jug at the lip (around 20 feet or so). Make a very spooky and committing mantel involving a sh*tty left hand crimp on the slab and a right hand/foot match. Technically and physically, this is not hard for V6, but it is a VERY committing highball with potentially serious consequences if you blow it on the insecure mantel. I have witnessed a climber fall while mantelling, and it was by far the most serious fall I have seen, but luckily he walked away unscathed (due to the 15+ pads and spot).

Goodnight Cowboy

Silk Spectre

Heading South

Two Short Men Walk Into A Bar

Annual Bonus

Hartley Exception

Less Than Zero

Vertus

Sustainable, Organic Bolting

Black Dog

Left Most

Arrowhead Face

Key West

Unknown

Simple Green

Margaritaville

Slabbist

Yes, I Am A Pirate

Arrowhead Right

Dr. Manhattan

Arrowhead Left

Plummer's Crack

Silk Spectre is on the far right side of the boulder. Start on a blunt arete, and follow the arete, trending right into the V6. It has a name, but I have forgotten it. This was done first by either Austin German or Will Mondragon, I believe.

Alternatively, per

J T

: start just left of the blunt arete on the right side of the boulder, and do a shoulder move to move on to the arete topping out straight up. There is also variation that traverses left into the V6.

With a 70 meter rope, the 5.9 can be done as well all in one pitch. In which case, bring 10 draws.

Climb the steep start on good holds, then mantel your way past a series of bulges.

Start on the ledge above the raspberry bushes, then work up right. This has a fun, steep crux with great edges. Bring a 0.75 to place above the 3rd bolt if you're nervous of a runout at the grade.

This route shares a start and the first bolt with "

Slabbist

" before breaking right to a separate bolt line. Follow the arete/corner, then move on to the face to the right around the third bolt via a crimp rail. Follow the slabby face to the chains.

Start on a small ledge above raspberry bushes, then follow cracks and a flake into the main corner. The corner ends, and the anchor is just above your head.

Climb up and right on ledges past a dead tree stump until you reach the base of a finger / tight hands crack. Pull through the crux, and establish yourself in the crack. Follow the seam through a hard to read section with tenuous gear and big (but clean) fall potential if that gear fails. Climb an enjoyable hand crack for another 50 feet to the anchor.

This is an impressive route for the area with a burly physical crux and a committing mental crux. Be ready.

Follow slabby cracks leading up and left to a small pine tree in the middle of the face.

The cracks turn into seams where bolts start just below a left-facing corner.  Follow the bolts up on chickenheads and huecos to where you can step over the dihedral onto the face.

The dihedral turns into a small, featured arete with fun climbing up to the anchors.

Follow bolts up towards a small roof 20 feet off the ground below the very large roof about 100 feet up.

When at the roof, clip the bolt and step around the left end of the roof on smears to a shallow, left-facing corner. The first crux is gaining a small ledge in the corner on smears with poor handholds.

Place a small cam in the thin crack, and climb onto another small ledge.

Step right out of the corner onto the face and clip the bolt. The second crux is using smears and small holds to reach a second thin crack system to the right which trends up and left to below the very large roof.

Climb the thin crack using jams, smears, and several chickenheads. Slings can be used on the chickenheads for protection.

Follow the crack up to the anchors.

Climb the roof slot with a 3-4 inch crack on the left side. Negotiate the roof on hand jams & jugs, then finish up the easier crack / slab with a few bolts on the top before an anchor. This is pretty dirty with lots of guano under the roof, but it is a fun climb nonetheless!

This is an interesting but fairly contrived route. It climbs the middle of the arrowhead face via progressively more challenging moves until a true show stopper crux is reached at the top on some very tiny holds. The line goes without use of the cracks on each side, but in this crux section, they are easily in reach on each side making committing the upper crux of this line a challenge. It goes at 11a-11+ depending on how early you reach for the cracks, if ever.

Beautiful patina edges on a vertical face make for a quality moderate outing.

Climb past bolts straight up the face with a crux in the blank face in the center. It is 5.10 if you use the arete.

An offwidth or lieback on the left side of the smaller pillar descibed below starts the route.

Once at the top of the smaller pillar, follow the line of least resistance up and to the left to a double bolt anchor which are for a route called Two Short Men Walk Into A Bar.

This climb is on the steep face right of the deep, chimney-like gully left of a steep, featured face.

The route starts with stemming between the smaller pillar of

Simple Green

and the steep face for two bolts.

Once on the face, steep climbing on one to two finger pad edges continues for 3 bolts. The crux is from the third to the fifth bolt, with consistently difficult climbing.

The angle decreases at the 6th bolt and to the anchors.

Ascend a steep and long slab with fun smearing and stemming moves.

Start climbing light brown rock to a bluge with flakes above for holds. Then angle left to the same first anchor of

Heading South

.

Climb the obvious right crack on the face over a bulge with some wedged flakes. Once the crack proper is reached, the leftward lean of the crack can make for a few thought-provoking moves. Once the ledge is reached, follow the wide crack over a few fun features to the chains.

This problem is found on the north side of the boulder, just down the hill from the main Feral Petunia wall.

Climb the left crack on very good hand jams to reach the upper face which has two bolts on the upper left panel. This has good rock with nice protection in a secluded setting.

This climb has varied, interesting, and sustained climbing.

The first section of the climb is on mostly good holds up through two roof bands which the Plummer's Crack system cuts through.

Although it looks like a crack, there are many features which allow climbing without resorting to much jamming. However, the cracks provide ample opportunities for protection except in a few places.

The second roof is passed with thin/finger jams and stemming to reach a good thin hand jam on the left.

Horizontal cracks and vertical cracks lead to the crux:

A lieback flake on the right can be used to make progress smearing on the face until a good chickenhead can be reached.

Alternatively, a good finger slot near the bottom of the flake can be used with smears and a crystal to get high enough to reach back to the main crack system on the left which is finger-sized.

Protection is tricky here, especially if you preserve the slot for the fingers.  Also, it is difficult to lean far enough to the right to insert and inspect the pro.

Above the crux, a slabby, long crack trends slightly right with good slots for hands, toejams, and smears up to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Feral Petunia