Sketchy pockets, bad feet, chossy topout... what more could you ask for?

Dead Letter

Show Me The Lime

Slimy Hands

D.O.P.E (Darling, Only Pain Exists)

Hips Under

Summer Sausage

Battle of the Bulge

It Is Wet

Dirty Hands

George's House

Buckets

Southern-style Sloper Slapper

Sittin' and Shittn'

Milk Fa Your Buckets

Cliffhanger Left

Two Tops

Raise the Roof

Sloper Rails

Too Proud

Dyno If You Dare

Battle of the Ardennes

Cliffhanger Right

Talk about Lock Off

After Work Beers

Split the Start

Power Ranger

Grab Those Jugs

The Claw

Criss Cross

Sloper Start

The Western Front

Earth Birth

Quality Wannabe

Follow the crack seam under the roof for a ~10-foot right-to-left traverse, smearing and swearing your way until you link up with Buckets (V4). Finish through Buckets.

Sit start on two crimps.  Make move to lip over roof to either small pinch or small crimps and then up to solid jugs.  Move under the roof is tough.  Top out to finish.  

Sloper start match on sit start. Very hard lock off move to a good edge. Then traverse to the right on good edges.

Sit start on sloper, big move to left hand crimp or right hand sloper, then find good edges, and go straight up.

Start on low edges feet to the left, bump up to a right crimp, then go to a left pinch and right crimp, and then finish on good ledge.

Starts under the overhang to the right of Cliffhanger Right. Feet are terrible so heel hooks and mantling are necessary

Sit start in cave, can use edges or side pull, traverse to right on crimps then over roof with good edges straight up.

Sloper start match on sit start, and make big move to a good edge, and then traverse slightly to right.  

This route has some hard moves and 2 sets of beta. One set of beta involves inserting your entire body and rearranging yourself to slap up to the only crimp on the top left of the route. The other set of beta involves matching on the ledge and moving a high heel to throw for the small crimp up on the far left. Very difficult transitions at the beginning and a lot of big moves, the lack of feet make this route an absolute classic.

Start under the roof to the right of the pocket higher up on the rock. Come out to the edge to the crip, match the jug, and traverse to the second ledge out left. Heal hook left and reach up to the pocket with your right hand. Hit the pocket about your right hand with your left. Stand up and slap the top. Match the top, Get a high foot and muscle up over for the send. 

Start on the black-colored lip and cup the side pull above you. Left than right on the comfy slopers on the left. Pop to the ledge above you before driving for the obvious boulder above your head: there's a juggy notch on the left side.

Sittin' and Shittn' is located to the right of George's House. The problem starts underneath the overhung rail. There are two sharp crimps on the roof of the lowest overhang. Start cross armed on this with shitty feet, a big move back will bring you to a large sloped pincher, match this bad boi. Walk your feet underneath left to a small chip. Throw your hand up to the ledge that is a grayish-blue from limestone leakage, from here you will need to heel hook with the left and hard flag right, set your feet and while simultaneously working you hands up small pockey-jugs, you will reach the largest ledge that is directly above the start. From here you will have to do some moves similar to George's House, pulling your whole body onto the ledge sideways, then cranking on a janky triangle to pull your body up. This is the second crux, and I won't give away the rest of the beta, but keep on the lookout for hidden crimps. Pull yourself up and over the top. 4-5 pads are strongly recommended as this is a spooooooky top-out and often wet. If you cant top due to the conditions, match the top and call it a day you've struggled enough.

Sit start, solid holds the whole way up, top out. Lots of varieties as the shelf has a bunch of different ledges that will hold solid. Some mud/moss present. Good warm up/beginner route.

Left side of the Cliffhanger Right, starts low and goes until the top of the cliff tooth

Sit start on ledge. Move left hand then big move right hand then another big move to right and top out. Couple of large moves.  

Sit start in left corner, traverse under roof in lip.  Then make a huge move around the flat roof to a good edge.  Using a toe hook, you can make another move to a good edge on the lip and then move over roof on easy edges.

Sit start on low edge with high right heel/toe, make big lock off move to rock to great slopers, traverse left under roof, and finish at battle of bulge.  Top out is balancy.  

Dyno to the big rock juts up high from the center crimps

Probably the best climb and the longest in the area. Your muscles will be burning from the length and the overhangs. The mantles up top are terrible and the lack of feet and hands up high make this a difficult crux! Please Enjoy!

Crux is on the hanging tooth with the small crimps.

Start Matched on Edge, then lock-off or dyno to far edge. Huge and fun move. Top out on edge.

Start is on two good crimps, with feet or heel on left side.  Cross over move to sloper/pinch with left hand and then right hand move to far sloper.  From there, use a couple of full pad crimps to make it to top.  Top out between large boulders.  

Stand start on awkward feet (stemming), then traverse right and up on good holds.

Sit start, big move to right crimp, then bring up hand to left crimp, then big moves to finish. Heel start with left leg helps.

Low sit start then juggy moves straight up.

Sit start, move to first ledge, then next ledge. Use heel to power to top boulder and then switch heels to match on top boulders. Top out.

Start on undercling and crimp, criss cross to hold to left, and then bump up to good crimps.  Short but early moves are powerful.  

Sit start on sloper, big move with left hand to jug, then criss cross to ledge.  Traverse this about 5-7 feet, then bump to next ledge.  Then mantle on the ledge and top out.  

Right-to-left linkup between Battle of the Bulge and Sloper Rails. Right hand on the side pull, left hand under roof to crimp with thumb lock. Fire left, catching the rail with a dimple. Match and go for the smaller lip, picking up the Sloper Rails line. Top out any ol' place, one you mantle the ledge the hard part is over.

Not sure if this is intertwined with Cliffhanger Right, but it sure is a lot easier than a 4+ so I'm sure it's not the same line. Start low on the two jugs, nice easy jug moves straight to the right of the giant ceiling ledge, when you reach the slabby face to the right, there's a tiny finger pocket, use that and some high feet to top out, crawl up between the slabby bit and the overhanging ledge. Be mindful of mud in March and April 

Sit start on two low jugs.  Make move to next set of jugs, and then make move under the roof to a small pinch on the lip. From there, make powerful move to good jug and top out to finish.

This is not the greatest area in the world to boulder but there are some definite beginner-intermediate problems here. The rock is of shale limestone mix with some chunky granite. The area is located in the shade and is never busy. The rock wall tops out at 17 feet at the mid section. Bring bug spray or this area will be a nightmare in the summer. Definitely something close if you are a climber in the SU area and are tired pumping plastic.

Description

Routes in Main Wall