Short stemming corner used as an alternate start to GNS or Pisces/ Libra Crack.

Sandy Corner

Libra Crack

Taurus

Pisces

Blockbuster

Air Over Aries

Aries (aka The Lizard)

Voyage to the Bottom of the Verge

On the Verge

Great Northern Slab

Let's Go Bowling

Sickle Crack

A fun outing, this route tends to be pretty popular.

P1 (5.2) Start in the corner to the left of the flat ledge with the 10c toprope problem. Climb rightward up a ramp and through some bushes, then straight up an easy ramp to two very large (i.e. 1-inch diameter) bolts.

P2 (5.7) Climb up the corner. The 5.7 move is the somewhat awkward move to gain a sloping ledge. Continue up the crack system on the left or the right (technically Pisces), both 5.6, to a belay/rappel station with an overcomplicated set of chains.

P3 (5.7+) Either climb up a ramp left and continue up to the top, or go right up another ramp and climb a slabby face to the top. Descent: Rap the route. With 2 60-m ropes, you can reach the ground from the rap station at the top of the second pitch.

The obvious handcrack going straight up to the right of the huge eyebolt.  Approach as for GNS, Pisces, etc.  Goes from tight hands to perfect hands to fists all in the course of 20 feet, then finishes up the beautiful easy crack above.  Many people think this is tough for the grade - I've known people who onsight 11 crack to get spanked on this short pitch.  Maybe handsize dependent?

A two pitch route with an excellent upper hand crack.

P1. From the top of Blockbuster climb the easy corner just to the left left. Consider belaying here to reduce rope drag). Traverse right passing the top of the Butt Lips Chimney and the start to Air Over Aries to a angular looking hand crack.

P2. Head straight up the hand crack until it joins with the final pitch of the

GNS

.

This perfect splitter handcrack is really a continuation of Libra Crack but is often climbed by itself.  To climb the crack w/o climbing Libra there are two options:

1. Climb the 5.0 gully past the giant rings and up the corner before traversing left to the base of the crack.

2. Climb the 5.4 corner above, and just left, of Blockbuster before traversing left past an arete to the base of the crack.

The is the wide crack splitting the boulder above Sickle Crack which it is normally combined with.  The moves are brutal for those unfamiliar with wide cracks.

A thin friction climb on the slab above the traversing 3rd pitch of Aries.

This is a high-quality climb up Index's Great Northern Slab area, with a wide variety of climbing styles, perfect protection, and gorgeous Index granite. Though it is commonly done in 5 pitches, all of the pitches are very short (some less than 30 feet). The original rating on this route was 5.8, but is now an Index 8+. In Leavenworth, this route would easily be rated 5.9+ or 5.10A.

To approach, just cross the tracks, go slightly uphill, and trend diagonally right to the closest wall. Look for the obvious fist-crack and start here.

Pitch #1 - 5.8 - Jam up the hand-crack which turns into tough flared fists at the crux. Belay on the ledge. 25 feet

Move your belay over to the base of the finger-crack on the climber's right.

Pitch #2 - 5.8 - Jam or lieback up the thin fingers to tips crack in the left facing corner. Scramble up to the base of the squeeze and belay at the fixed bong. 70 feet

Pitch #3 - 5.8+ - Wrestle and grunt your way up the vertical featureless superslick flared squeeze chimney. This pitch is often wet. Remember to remind yourself that it's only "5.8". Belay on the ledge above. 40 feet

Pitch #4 - 5.8 - Climb the crack up to the roof, then hand traverse to the left with beautiful exposure. Turn the corner then jam the hand and fingercrack to the big anchor. 70 feet

Pitch #5 - 5.7 - There are 2 options for this pitch. Consider the left one, which is much better. Scramble up to the tree, then angle up and to the left towards the arete. Look for 2 bolts above you. Fun balancy slab moves bring you to the anchor at the top of the wall. 90 feet

Descent: Rap the Great Northern Slab route. Only 1 rope needed.

Ascend the arete on the right of the Aries dihedral. It is relatively short, but still longer than "On the Verge", which lies directly above.

Difficult climbing up the arete to the right of the Butt Lips Chimney.

Contrived face route right of the Pisces hand crack.  This route finishes up the last part of the crack that comprises the 4th pitch of the Lizard.

The traversing lower half of the crack can be climbed either high (by shuffling your feet along the crack using your hands for balance) or low (with your hands in the crack while smearing).  The upper half of the climb is easier.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (A) Great Northern Slab