A moderate sport climb with the crux coming around bolt 2 or 3

Clipper

Slipper

Lopper

Ballad of Bricks

Roofer

Stepper

Beck Beck

Hopper

Whipper

Stun the Hun

Bantam Slab

Crapper

Cracker

Whopper

Launch

Zipper

Bantam Tiers

This is located on the north-facing Epicurean Crag. A mostly 5.6 route with a perplexing awkward roof.  Going left through it felt like hard 5.10 going right felt more reasonable but a bit awkward maybe 5.9?  The rest of the route is mellow quartzite climbing.  This is one of the longer routes in the area.

Super slick water polished quartzite is the name of the game here.  This route starts off very easy with an easy roof (5.5). Protect with a 1.5” cam between bolts 3 and 4. These moves are delicate and thought-provoking with a left option or a right option to get to the next bolt.   From here it's up over the small roof and a couple more clips to the chains if memory serves.

Head up directly between the trees. Mellow climbing on decent rock.

Pull up and around a small roof. Scamper up low angle terrain to a 2-bolt station.

Follow the bolts up and right of the sketchy flake. This flake looks precarious from below, but felt and appeared solid enough that some serious effort would be required to dislodge it. In any case, there are plenty of holds available to the right of this feature so avoiding any and all contact with the flake is probably wise. The bottom half of the climb is pretty unremarkable, but the upper face is good and leads to a cool top out. Small gear protects the final 15 feet or so to the chains.

Great warmup, short. Lots more V0-V2 options right there.

This is the left-most route on the east facing Site #13 Crag. Well-protected climbing up a highly featured face.

On the East face one of the two bolted routes.  Dirty, brushy, and "licheny" but should clean up with traffic.

Short, straightforward, and the anchors at the top make it great for getting kids or really anyone used to relying on a rope and doing a mini-climb, or for practicing/teaching various safety skills.

Located on the north side of Site #10 Rock. Clip 2 bolts on decent rock before placing some optional gear in more broken up rock before reaching the chains.

Slab up to a roof with a nice hole in the top. Sketch anchor set up from the hike around.

An excellent first traditional lead. Work your way up a slab for 20 or so feet until you reach the obvious crack that leads to the chain anchor above. Somewhat limited gear placement opportunities available before reaching the crack.

An easy route for kids to check out. One bulge and a crack. Bring cams or run it out on the easy section to a 2-bolt station below the ledge. Tony Calderone & Elizabeth Griffin climbed this in 2017.

Fun, slabby, lots of room for creativity. Only continue to the top if you are very confident, a little crashpad won't save you here.

Careful for possibly loose chunks of rock.

Located on Picnic Site #10 Rock. Climb the right side of the east facing wall, up through a couple of mellow roofs.

Description

Location

Routes in Ledgemere Logs