The book calls this one v5. I thought it was soft, and I know other people agree it is soft. Start with opposing side pulls. Both side pulls are good. The crux figuring out where to put your feet. The huge foot isn't a sucker. Left foot on the huge foot and right way right smeared on good texture. Position your butt right to get yourself off the ground. Throw hard up and left to a good crimp, and match it. Move your feet up and find two slopers that are set kinda far apart. Next work you way to a good crimp and pull up and over the edge. Clean the crimp off. I fell from there crimping on pine needles...

Runaway

Splendid

Sandy Landing

Aroma  Therapy

Realms, Regions, and Concepts

Bolt On Top

Dilemma Tree

Gene Therapy

Grab The Junk

Conceptual Therapy

There is no bolt on top, but there used to be. 

Highball

  This spectacular slab is a classic and committing intro to the grade. Beginners, visitors and locals often swarm this climb simply due to it's quality. This may sound annoying, but their pads will save your butt if you fall. This is the classic line for the grade at Boulder Natural and Pawtuckaway. 

  Stand start on good crimps about 4 feet left of the big sidepull flake feature that is the start of Sandy Landing(v0)directly below a big flakey jug halfway up the wall. A few fun crimpy moves get you to the jug. Grab a good crimp, and make the crux reach to a good edge. Injuries could occur from falling off of this move. Hit the lip and mantel.

 Original description: "Climb the face with ease and top out this great highball with a flat landing."

Climb the easy face to the left of the tree, there are good feet(an obscurity to P-way) and good hands. Its fun but over quick. There is no defined crux, if I had to pick one it would be the first move establishing yourself on the boulder. This problem is fun but not a classic by any means. 

  A sit start would bump the grade up a bit. 

  Descend this climb to get down.

Start on crimps and crimp you way to a slopey topout.   Usually done as a warm up, or part of a traverse.   This line tops out on tricky holds with wierd feet.   Careful descending this boulder, most folks go down by the tree (involves a 5 foot jump down). 

The crux is right off the ground... Start with a left foot on a small hold then reach the arete with your right hand and get your right foot on a slopy foot hold... Keeping that right foot on will prove to be the crux... Once you stand up on the foot more moderate crimping gets you to the top out...

Good problem. Starts on crimps with solid feet. Short move to a crimp and then continue to a slopey (and good) hold. Follow it off right and up on slopers, then top out.

Sit start with you right hand on a sidepull to the right of the arete and left hand on any of the bad holds on the left. Pull of the ground and work up the arete to an obvious gaston with difficulty. Then top out.

Start right of the Arete and work left of the arete on your way to a high topout.   Climb the Crimps to the cool topout.   Classic at the grade. 

  V3 called Aroma Therapy if you start left of the arete and stay left of the arete.

This is a rarely climbed line, it has decent movement but nothing to draw it any regular attention.  

  Sit start with right hand on a crimp rail and left hand about 8 inches higher on another good incut. Work up the face using a gaston and crimps to reach the jugs near the top.

Sit start with a good right hand sidepull on the arete and a decent undercling for your left hand underneath the boulder. Pull on and slap left hand to the pinch above and make sustained moves on crimps up and left to the sloping lip and topout.

This tall, featured face is frequently swarmed by climbers who want to warm up or challenge themselves on the fun problems.  At times, pads will cover the landing zone from one end of the boulder to the other and can resemble a traffic jam.  The stream-side of the boulder holds two challenging aretes and a desperate sit-start linkup, while the steeper back of the boulder has some good entry level moderates.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Buttermilk Boulder