This route is the second route from the left. It starts with 3 bolts of 5.10 climbing followed by a wicked crux section on tiny crimps and pockets with no footholds. The fourth bolt is difficult to clip. It's actually easier to bypass it and clip it after you've done the crux and it's at your knees and the last bolt you've clipped is three feet below your feet. Fairly creepy. Luckily, it's probably only 5.11a after the crux. While attempting the first ascent I broke a hold and fell on the 5.11a section after fighting through the crux, which forced me to do the scary crux again. This is probably not the easiest 13a to go out and project.

I'm Melting

If I Only Had A Brain

Flying Monkeys

The Cowardly Lion

This route is awesome. In my opinion, if this route was at a bigger area, it would be one of the more sought after 12c's in the canyon. This route is the second route from the right. It's very powerful with many one-handed pulls with little or no intermediates. After the fourth bolt the route traverses up and right for one more bolt to reach Cowardly Lion's anchors. Superb.

This route typifies how the desire to put in a route over-rides your common sense. Nate Renner and I accessed this route from a muddy gully on the top of the cliff in the rain. I tied into a tree at the lip of the cliff (about 200ft. off the ground) and belayed Nate as he traversed out a skinny ledge and sunk in a "bad" anchor. One nerve-wracking full rope length rappell brought him to where he put in the anchor for the route. When I got back down, he told me that I had to jug up the line to get our ropes. Did I mention that all this happened in the rain? That's how the route got its name. 

  It was all worth it. This excellent route is the far left route on the wall and climbs up the gently overhanging rock on good pockets and edges. The route name also applies to the onsight climber, it's very sequential. The fourth clip in the middle of the crux is fairly difficult.

This is the far right route and climbs through the steepest section of the wall. Please stick-clip the first bolt to avoid any possible diggers off the ledge. This route begins with easy climbing that quickly gives way to a thin pocket crux complete with a half-pad crimp mono! A long reach to and off of a decent mono marks the crux, but the steep black bulge above should not be taken lightly. This route has great sequential climbing on great stone. The top can get a little dirty from run-off early in the season.

The routes and the setting at the Wall of Oz are spectacular. There are only four routes and they all start off of an exposed 3-4 foot wide ledge that runs the length of the wall on the side of the steep hillside. The routes are exposed and stick-clipping the first bolts is recommended, especially on Flying Monkeys and Cowardly Lion where if you were to fall off the ledge, you would fall about 10 feet to the ground and then continue to tumble down the steep rocky hillside. The wall faces southwest and can be hot in the summer until it pulls in the shade around 2pm.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Wall Of Oz