Well-protected and casual but fun climbing make Megster a good route for novice leaders.  And if it's hot weather, your belayer can bask in the steady stream of cold air coming out of the big crack on the right! 

  Starting at the base of a right-facing corner, climb the corner to a small roof.  Skirt the roof by moving right to a ledge, then continue up to a bench-like block near a tree to finish.

Megster

Overstoned

Mega Death

Pipe Full of Fun

Lost and Found

Roger's Corner

Defoliator

Tree Hugger

Back to the Future

Garden Club

Linda's Corner

Prevailing Winds

Netherworld Excavation

Samurai

Nooner

boy scout crack

Angels corner

Black Pig

The Hobbler

Guzzler

crew leader

Black Hole

Steggo

Refrigerator Crack

Get Your Wings

Franklin Boys

Laurel Lie

Didn't Make it to Sunset

Hidden Precious

Maybe Not

Short and sweet

Persistence

kids korner

Foreign Policy

Clodhopper

Somalian Hunger

Future's Window

Cornerstone

[Redacted]

Nightmares

Sweet and sour

Angels and Demons

Baby Buzzard

Yellow Jacket

Twister

Place in the Shade

U.S. Customs Blues

Paradigm

Goodbye Girl

Booze and Broads

Party Rock

No distinct crux.  Move from the crack system out left onto the ledge.  Place some pro move past the crack as it fades out.  We went towards the tree and mantled up onto the ledge.  Go towards the flake/crack via the path of least resistance.  Mantle at tree and look up to see rap tree.

Crux on face down low protected by a bolt. Pull through several positive crimps to a ledge then exit the right side of the roof on good holds. Finger size pro, optional #4 behind a flake before the roof. Rap off a tree.(webbing and a ring at time of post)

Climb the crack on the right face up to the roof in the corner. From here you have two options.

Option 1, 5.9+, 50ft total route length Break out left through the roof and finish up another short corner system. Scramble up the dirty ledge to a suitable pair of trees.

Option 2, 5.10a, 80ft total route length Dodge around the roof to the right and continue up the corner system above past a thin crux. Finish via a large vertical flake near the top. There's a good tree about 10 feet to the left to descend.

Another great line in what is the highest quality part of Lost Wall.  Another right facing corner in the series of many corners and cracks near Booze and Broads.   

  Starts with a wide section down low that can be climbed via layback or face climbing and jamming.  Either way is about the same grade.  After 20 or so feet you come to a large jug to hang and place gear on.  After this you need to jam a few moves to get to the roof.  It looks like the hardest part of the route but is pretty easy.  Moving past this pro up and pull a few steep moves to get to a blocky finish.

Climb the crimpy face past pockets and horizontals to beneath the large boulder at the top. Escape left around the boulder.

Climb the crack in the corner past a short, weird crux to the tree ledge. Continue up the dirty corner to the top.

One of the few "true classics" at Lost Wall, this route actually has 3 variations. For the original route, climb the shallow corner to the top, then move left to an RP sized weakness. Finish by moving up to the ledge, then left through a V shaped roof/slot. For a 5.9- version, after reaching the top of the shallow corner, climb straight up through a short runout section to the same ledge as the original and move left to the V roof. The third variation is actually a separate route called "Easy Street", 5.8. Wander off to the right after the shallow corner and finish on a ledge.

Slabby start leads to fun slightly overhanging climbing above.

Climb the short, right-facing corner, then up easy ground past a loose block to the crack. Continue up the dirty crack to a vegetated ledge. Walk right a few feet, then climb up and left along the steep, blocky orange wall. Watch out for loose rock here. Continue up to the top. Belay from the top. 

  You will need two ropes to get down in one rappel. With one rope you can rappel down to the tree at the top of Nooner, and then rappel to the ground from there.

Climb a big right facing corner to a tree ledge.

Even better than it looks! Consistently challenging and well-protected crack climbing leads up to the corner. Continue up the corner past a final crux near the large block. Grovel up the filthy slab above to the trees. 

  (Although the block looks very precarious, for the time being it seems to be relatively stable. Using it is not advised. If it falls, it will almost certainly kill you. It will then hunt down your family and kill them too. Seriously, don't use it!)

A few paces from Booze  and Broads lies Samurai -- a tall and unfrequented offwidth crack.

Climb dirty, blocky ground to reach the corner. Steeper, consistent climbing leads up the corner to the ledge. You can rappel by throwing your rope over the tree. Please DO NOT toprope over the tree -- rappelling off it is bad enough.

start 40' left of lost and found follow a flake system to a crack and on to the top

Start 20' right of rogers corner in a polished corner behind a huge tree, follow a hand crack up to a small roof work past this to a small ledge work through the offwith crack to the top/reppel tree

Another great corner corner with a couple of short roofs and a cool chockstone down low.  Finish on at a tree.

start 10' left fo crew leader, face climb 20' to a left-facing flake and finish via a short hand crack to the top.

A beautiful, jagged hand crack splits the face and eats up pro, giving Guzzler its name.  This is a popular moderate lead, so be ready to stand in line if you don't get there early. 

  Follow the vertical crack up the wall to a short roof also split by a crack.  Climb directly up through the overhang on hand jams and reachy holds, or play it safe by moving left to easier moves over the roof.

start 8' left of boyscout crack at a shallow right facing corner face climb 30' to a good ledge, finish via a finger crack

in the middle of the face. Climb arching cracks to a black hole. Step right and then left to the top

A surprisingly nice route for the grade, Steggo is a good test for novice leaders to learn how to spot less-than-obvious placements for pro.  It can also be set up as a toprope by scrambling up a gully on the left. 

  Start on the slabby face, moving up on easy ground with thin protection.  End at a big tree on top of the wall.

An obvious wide crack.  Fist jams most of the way.

This is a fun little route, with hero climbing on jugs through a roof.   

  Located ~80' left of Ethnic Cleanser, under an obvious prominent roof. 40' of corner/roof/hand crack climbing. Often dirty after the roof. Roof is great fun on jugs, protected by small cams (easy to double up before launching into the crux roof)

Work your way up the right facing dihedral.  Starts out easy and becomes more sustained at the top.  The crux is getting out of the alcove at the top.

Climb crack to horizontal holds, the first 20 feet are harder than they look. Climb face, pull an easy roof and continue to top.

Crux if you don't finish on Refrig. crack is pulling the roof.  It isn't any harder than Guzzler's roof, at the same rating.  If you finish on Refrig. crack the crux will be pulling through the wide slot at the top.

start at The obvious crack splitting the wall work up thru a small roof 20' up into the offwith flare (crux ) to another offwith crack (crux)That will keep you guessing to the top of a huge ledge With anchors The roof above was done but with a 5.10X Rating due to the huge loose moving boulders midway up!!!NOT RECOMENDED!!!!

Climb the obvious left facing corner crack to a stance below a roof.  Work left out under the roof and continue up the dihedral to a tree above

climb a left-facing corner with a stance 12' up

Super Pumpy! This was the First route done at lost wall. climb an overhanging finger crack and face to the top

behind a boulder/block climb a left-facing corner until it links up with the last moves of steggo

Climb the arete to a fixed pin. Negotiate a reachy crux to a nice jug under the horizontal roof and follow the finger crack up the slab to the top.

Climb a left facing corner past two roofs.  Might be dirty and/or have cobwebs...but is a pretty nice climb.

Thin moves and horizontals lead past a fixed pin and three bolts.  Not a bad idea to bring a yellow or green alien to ease your mind as you work through the crux up high.

Start same as Paradigm. follow a shallow corner to bolts. follow the bolts to the left to a fixed pin and then to the top.

nice arete up to a ledge w/ some small trees just before a final boulder problem( don't skip it!).   Rap from the chains on top of clodhopper (climbers left).

This is one of very few bolted routes at Lost Wall (which is basically Trad Country). I found the crux to be the bouldery start of the climb which after the 2nd bolt moves into easier gound. Resist the temptation to lean on the obvious tree at the start of the climb.

Climb 15' left of the arete, Past a single bolt, to the top.

face climb up a two sided flake through a notch at a live fallen tree.

delicate moves up thru a small finger crack over bulges to a roof pull this to a good stance catch your breath and continue to follow the finger crack to a hand crack out the top over a small roof Multible cruxes be carful when topping out no gear!(the demons) find a small ceadar tree up and right look for reppel ring on blue slings 

It starts just to the right of Black Pig. 2 hand craks run 15'. Then you climb behind a horn to nice holds all the way. very fun

finger crack in a right facing corner to a roof. step left, pull the roof and continue up a flake to the top.

Climb the overhanging handcrack located 15' from Roger's Corner.

A right facing corner with a big block perched about 20 feet up the route.

follow bolts and pins up an overhanging face to anchors

Climb the face and arete below and left of the roof on Maybe not.  Good TR after Maybe Not.

One of a handful of true must-do routes at Lost Wall, Booze and Broads is a great corner climb. If the strenuous boulder-problem start doesn't leave you out of breath, the stemming corner and roof traverse will. 

  Start at an overhang under the big corner.  Pull difficult roof moves (a spotter and early-placed protection is really a good idea) into a hand crack and muscle your way up to a stance.  Follow the right-facing corner to a big roof, then traverse right to a corner and up to the top.

Per 2013 DCA:  Climb a right-facing corner.  Exit over an airy roof.

 The picture in the DCA suggests you can finish directly up from the corner (between the two roof points if you're looking up from the ground) or cut right at the top of the corner, under a fallen tree, and pulling a smaller, less intimidating roof.

 WARNING:  If you take the second option, there are no anchors and the tree that had permaslings has fallen over and is barely hanging to the top of the cliff.  The slings and tree atop the direct finish appeared be intact (while looking from the other side).

Lost Wall doesn't get a lot of respect from climbers who've been spoiled by the bounties of Tennessee Wall and other great crags around nearby Chattanooga.  It's true that Lost Wall doesn't have the length of cliffline, the height or even the rock quality to match the Tennessee Crags, but it's still a worthwhile destination.  It has a number of good routes for topropers and leaders trying to hone their skills, along with some routes like Booze and Broads which would be exceptional just about anywhere. 

  Hard to see from the lowlands and not easy to find, exploration at Lost Wall began in the mid-1980s, with Georgia hardmen like Shannon Stegg and Curtis Glass putting up routes like Persistence (the first recorded route at LW) and Laurel Lie.  Other pioneers include Jim Corbett, David Young and Stewart Coffield.  The more recent development (which continues today) has been in the Netherworld, the section furthest south at the crag. 

  Lost Wall is a predominantly trad area, with single-pitch lines ranging from 40-120 feet high.  The rock is sandstone and though not as consistent as T-Wall, is mostly good quality. 

  Camping is available in the wildlife management area, though the camping regulations have changed in the last year or so.  Check with the rangers for where to camp; also be aware that there are periodic hunting closures at Lost Wall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lost Wall