You better have your calluses built up before getting on this one. Small, sharp crimpers = fun!This problem starts standing up about 15 feet to the right of Black Roughy. Grab two obvious, small crimpers, pull up to another left hand crimp and make a hard move to a slanting, sharp crimp with the right hand. Now, stand up HARD and go right hand again to a good, but akwardly positioned right slanting rail that's up and right. When you do the throw to the rail, your left foot and left hand cut loose and you about barndoor off. The last move makes it worth suffering the painful crimp. Could have a sit start.You can see the chalky starting holds in the picture, to the right of the birch tree.

Farewell To Flesh

The Dove

Black Roughy aka God Is Love

Start spanned between two crimps, a few feet to the right of Black Roughy. Pop in to a pinch then work up.

"Black Roughy" is a sit-start problem on the Eastern exposure of the Black Roughy Boulder following an overhanging seam, and is also known as "God is Love."   

  Begin sitting in front of the obvious chalked-up block.   

  Move up and cross-through to an undercling with the right hand.  The left hand then goes to a slopey crimp in the flaring seam, then right hand up to the same level on a crimp, right foot to the starting hold.  Next move:  bring the right hand to a REALLY bad sloper-crimp, bring the left foot up a little (to the aforementioned "slopey crimp" after the start), then fall back to a gaston at your face (it isn't exactly falling back though), and make the last hard move to the sloper with the left hand and match.  From there, top it out. 

  Arguably the best V8 on Baldy!

This is a sweet boulder that is of the same caliber as the "Seul Avec Dieux" Boulder.  Really good rock, but the landings are a little strange--protectable, but strange (kind of slopes downhill).  There is no real danger of smacking a rock or a tree, if I remember correctly.  The two problems that I am aware of are on the Eastern side of the boulder.

Description

Protection

Routes in God Is Love Boulder