Sit start then climb easily up the shattered break up onto the slab.

Problem A

Black Pinch

Borson's Mantel

Problem C

The Ex

Auto Pilot

Borson's Leftside

Masterlock

Problem B

Borson's Lieback

Big Rock Boys Mantle

Just right of "Borson's Mantle" is a roughly-triangular-shaped sloping shelf listed as 5.12 in the Craig Fry guidebook. Apparently the idea is that one could mantle this, but I've never seen anyone do it in seventeen years of climbing here. Perhaps equally astonishing is that Big Rock's "testpieces" presumably gave these boys (whoever they are) the requisite skills to power off this move.

Climb directly up the middle of the wall.

A one move problem, but the mantle proves to be quite the move.

More difficult than it looks!

Sit start down in the dirt.

From the good incut hold make a long reach out to the lip of the overhang to a smallish jug.   From here move up directly passing a good incut flake crack.

Start on the arete and move left to the face.

The Auto Pilot boulder is located to the right of Borson's Wall about 20 feet above the road. "Auto Pilot" ascends through a steep bulge and into a shallow corner. It probably has some of the coolest moves of any Rubidoux problem, and is one of just a handful of the classics here that have nary a micro-crimp on them (unusual for Rubidoux). Although described as an .11b toprope in the Craig Fry guide, the rating is a sandbag. This could be looked at in modern-day crashpad terms as a highball V4. It is routinely bouldered by at least a few people. If you're under 6' tall, the crux move is probably much harder than V4. Be sure to have spotters prevent you from falling down to the road.

Climb up the left side of the wall on slightly gritty rock.

Unique problem beginning with a steep sidepull move to the "masterlock"--crank your tips in the obvious gash. A strange and obvious "thunder egg" or "geode" feature protrudes from the rock to the right of the gash and makes for an interesting hold should you find you need it. Some people exit right on this problem, utilizing holds at the top of "Black Pinch," but to truly send one must procede straight up and make a somewhat-insecure mantle. Use crashpads, or risk a pounding if you pitch and hit the pavement.

Sit start at a wide crack.

Climb directly up onto the slab using flakes and crimps.

The obvious shallow corner at the right side of Borson's Wall.

Climb the fairly straightforward groove.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Borson's Wall