Tech flat wall with sequential cruxes.  Decent.

Pick Apart the Day

Fun Planet

Funk Soul Brother

West of Hell

Divine Intervention

Tel Aviv Miracle

Right About Now

Fat Boys Skip School

Alley Cat Aggression

Earth Died Screaming

Paladin

Synagogue for the Pope

The Citadel of Hope

Stronghold of Decay

Blood Brother

Biltong Rides Tornado

Lab Rat on the Run

Wide Awake Zombie

Very exciting!  Vertical face with a great mix of pockets and crimps.  A couple long moves, but to great holds.

Climbs bulgy slab behind trees for three bolts, then hiking/scrambling ~30' up to next bolt at vertical face.  Climbs up the crack, over small bulge, to anchors on face above.

This stout number features a burly, sequential boulder problem clearing the obvious bulge.  Fortunately there are several other attention-getting sections, making the line sustained & challenging.

Begin 12' up the ramp, making big reaches between large holds.  The holds diminish at the third bolt, where interesting pockets lead to a pair of long reaches to gain the horizontal break and a good shake.  A few jugs lead to a reachy sequence through sloping pockets to reach the slab.  Cruise the slab to another tricky section on the tufa-coated headwall.

One full route left of the Citadel.  The first half of this route is not great quality rock.  There is a difficult sequence between bolt 3 and 4 involving a long reach to a right hand crimper and then crossing through to a left hand sidepull and up to a right hand jug.  One more bolt leads to a large horizontal that splits this section of the cliff.  You get basically a no hands rest at the break.

After this the rock quality and the quality of movement improve drastically.  There are 3 sequential sequences up the headwall separated by fairly decent rest stations.  Expect to be reaching far between positive crimps, gastons, sidepulls, and pockets. The route sneaks left after the last bolt to the anchor.  Overall a quality line, even if the start is a little crumbly.

Splits left off of The Citadel at bolt four.  Expect continuous crimps, sidepulls, and occasional pockets.  I could not find a rest on the headwall.

Sustained to the end.

If I were from Boston, I'd describe this route as being wicked awesome.  Since I'm not, I'll just say that it's a fantastic, sustained pitch on some great stone.

Follow good, but spaced, crimps and pockets up the beautiful pink and purple streak.  I felt that the crux proper was going from bolt 3-4 and involved a difficult cross through move from a good side pull to a sinker 2-finger pocket.  However, I felt there was no real 'easy' move on the entire route.

Rest as well as you can between bolts 5-6, because there's a stout boulder problem to reach the chains over the bulge, which will result in some BIG air if you blow it.

Right About Now is a great route on excellent rock, with sustained, intriguing climbing.  Unfortunately the crux lost a key hold recently, leaving an uncharacteristically intense crimp move at the third bolt.

Begin just right of the big Juniper Pine.  Scramble 8' up the ramp, then up onto the wall on big holds.  The crux begins just above the 2nd bolt, involving a glassy crimp that used to be a foot hold.  Larger holds lead to the horizontal break and a great rest in the obvuous hole.  Pumpy, juggy moves between jug pockets lead up the bulge to the slab.  A few easy moves gain the headwall and a few tricky moves to reach the juggy finish.

This route doesn't appear to get too much action, but has some good movement on crimps and pockets, with one reachy move about halfway up.

Middle of the 3 new routes.  Devious crux to fun top moves.

.11+ ramble on fun holds to hard exit crux right below anchor.  Could be dirty.  Fun and decent climb.

Though a good route with an enjoyable crux, the upper headwall is not as solid or as enjoyable as most of the other lines in the area.  The crux involves technical crimping on smooth edges.

Snake up the thin lower wall to reach easy slab climbing at the fourth bolt.  The horizontal break offers a good shake, then follow good jugs over the bulge, and awkward liebacking to the anchor.

A "Paladin" is Knight-like figure of a royal court, especially in the case of the "Twelve Peers" of Charlemagne's court.

Rightmost route and the last route on the Citadel wall.  Fairly sustained and just like most Citadel routes: Exit Crux!  Fun route!!!

One of the best 5.12b ticks in Sinks.  Start up a steep slab on the right part of the Citadel wall and climb up to a large pocket/hueco.  The headwall is sustained crimps and small pockets with an interesting crux

Just right of The Citadel.  Vertical climbing on great rock through a black streak.  Not sure why it doesn’t get more stars as this is probably the best route on the wall.  Probably this is due to the fact that the route follows a black streak and does not get done very often, leaving it pretty dirty.

The beginning of this route follows pockets and edges up a vertical wall to a large hueco.  It next trends slightly right to a crux finish after the last bolt.  Beware the sloper masquerading as a jug.  This one is not over until you clip the chains.

A good technical line on great stone.  This line starts to the left of the main panel of stone, below the big tree.  First scramble unprotected up the easy low angle ramp to reach the wall proper, head for bolts up the face that head to a shallow dihedral up higher.  An initial intricate crux on the face, leads to more interesting climbing in the upper dihedral, with a final crux surmounting a small bulge.

Rightmost route on the small wall left of Citadel wall proper.  Fun 5.10 climbing to definitive technical crux to rest to exit crux.

Scramble up the ramp to the left of the dead tree and clip the first bolt off of a somewhat attached large flake. Climb up dirty/bad rock on crimps and slopey pockets to the 3rd bolt. Then the crux comes with moving off two small slippery crimps to disappointingly bad pockets to clip from. I broke several footholds off, the rock quality is much worse that the routes to the right. There are much better 5.12's in Sinks.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Citadel